Ask the President

Send your questions to Randy Rowley, FCS president, at info@fcs-texas.org.  Questions are in red (bold) font.  Responses are in black font.

Try one of these:

I am a single father and my daughter is 12.  Naturally much of my life revolves around her.  Her outdoor passion for the last 8 years has been fly fishing and tying.  She has had 100-150 days on the water per year for the last eight years and has caused quite a stir in the industry on an international level.  While there are many organizations which focus on fly fishing, her new “acceptance” of fire arms has lead me to seek information on organizations with a broader outdoor experience.  Yours came to mind.  Ideally for us, an organization would have opportunity for her to learn new outdoor skills such as hunting and shooting but also have an anchor with what she is already quite familiar (i.e., fly fishing and tying).  Looking at the FCS event calendar I do not see fly fishing events.  Do you have many members who fly fish?  Does your group ever get together for river or public land trash pickups?  That is another passion of hers.

May a citizen of Texas, without a CHL or an LTC, carry a concealed handgun at church?

If a person would have been eligible to get a LTC when they were required, he or she can carry now without a permit.  They can also carry in any place where they were allowed to carry before constitutional carry was passed.  The only exception for churches would be ones with 30.05, 30.06, and/or 30.07 signs posted in accordance with the requirements of the law (e.g. one-inch high letters).  I still advise people to get a LTC anyway as trusting an officer to figure out whether you were eligible before might not be wise.  They may take the position of ticketing you and confiscating your handgun and letting a judge figure out if you were carrying legally.

I noticed this disclaimer while logging in on the Texas OA app today.  Basically they are saying that the app is not a “source of truth” in regards to regulations and users should check the info independently.  Given this disclaimer a game warden might refuse taking info from the app in case of an argument – why would they show the disclaimer otherwise?  Sounds like users should call TPWD to verify any questionable items.

Where can I sell high-end guns?

The Orvis Gun Room sells high-end guns on consignment.  The person who I contacted was Greg Carpiniellog – the Orvis Gun Department Manager.  His email address is CARPINIELLOG@orvis.com.  At the time of my inquiry, I was selling a Classic Doubles O/U 12 gauge shotgun.  From doing a web search I found two similar 12 gauges – one was selling for $1300 and the other was selling for $1195.  Also, at that time the asking price for the cheapest O/U that was for sale on the Orvis website was $2500.  I asked him if he was interested in selling my shotgun, as it was a lot less cheap than their cheapest gun, and he said no.  But he gave me a lot of good information on Classic Doubles.  Right now their cheapest shotgun is 5K.  A negative is they’re located in Manchester, Vermont, so you’d have to ship your gun(s) to them.

I’ll be happy to put these on the FCS Guns and Accessories for Sale page, at no charge.  Also, check out Texas Gun Trader.  They also don’t charge anything.  I’ve sold nine guns as a result of ads on their website.  All sales were local and none had any issues.  A lot more people look at their website than ours.

So you have a good list of rules for hunting camp/hunting together?  How about a list of gun range/sighting in rules?

Here are our FCS rules – https://fcs-texas.org/category/events/rules-of-conduct/.  FCS doesn’t have any range rules, but here are some from a local range – http://www.shadyoaksgunrange.com/wp-content/uploads/Annual-Waiver-SHADY-OAKS-GUN-ARCHERY-RANGE-03-11-2020.pdf.  Also, here are some rules on sighting in (although they’re really just range rules) – https://dwr.virginia.gov/wp-content/uploads/sighting-in-range-rules.pdf.  Lastly, here is information on sighting in procedures – 4 Rules for Effectively Sighting in Your Rifle and Sighting in your rifle.

How much do 3D archery shoots cost?

I have no idea – I’ve never shot one.  Contact Mike Walsh at duxmn@austin.rr.com or 512-560-7001 – he’s shot in Hill Country Bowhunters 3D shoots.

I didn’t receive my duck stamp in the mail.  What should I do?

Contact Amplex at duckstamp@amplex.com or 800/852-4897.  Do not contact the Federal Duck Stamp Office.

What accessories do I need to add to my stock/basic AR for hog and deer hunting and for home defense?

I recommend the following AR accessories for hog and deer hunting and home defense:

1. Scope and scope mount.  For scopes see Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle Scope.  For mounts I recommend the Burris Optics P.E.P.R. Riflescope Mount, Featuring Picatinny Ring Tops.  $75 at https://www.amazon.com/Burris-410343-Riflescope-Featuring-Picatinny/dp/B004P81FMU.  Note that they make them for 1”, 30mm, and 34mm scopes, so be sure to order one that fits your scope.
2. Flashlight, either for nighttime hog or predator hunting or for home defense (as it’s very hard to hold and shoot a rifle with one hand and hold a flashlight in your other hand – attaching your flashlight to your rifle solves that problem; you also don’t have to spend time looking for your flashlight when seconds count).  If you can’t see the hogs or predators you won’t be able to shoot them.  Note that you can’t hunt deer at night, so if you’re only going to hunt deer and hunt hogs during the day a hunting flashlight isn’t a necessity.  For nighttime hunting I like the Odepro KL52Plus Zoomable Hunting Flashlight for $113 (comes with a red light (for predators), a green light (for hogs), infrared light (for blood tracking), and white light, which can be used as a tactical light).  It includes an on/off pressure switch.  They are weather, water and shock resistant; they cover free repair for any purchases within 24 months if problems develop with normal use.  It does not include a Picatinny rail mount – you’ll need to buy a Magpul M-LOK Cantilever Rail/Light Mount for $33, see #3 below).  The Elusive Wildlife Technologies Kill Light XLR 250), which as the name implies will shine out to 250 yards, costs $7 more.  It includes a low profile Picatinny rail mount, ready to be installed on Magpul 7 slot rail section – see #5 below; available in three color options: green (for hogs – 260 lumens), red (for predators – 270 lumens) or white (for tactical – 360 lumens), but it only comes with one of the three; withstands the abuses almost any hunting environment can throw at it, but does not indicate whether it is water-resistant; has a money back 45 day guarantee on the entire package including shipping and a lifetime warranty on the light body and LED).  I bought a Kill Light with a green lens several years ago, before Odepro came on the market.  If I were buying today to mount on an AR, I’d buy the Odepro and the Magpul M-LOK Cantilever Rail/Light Mount and save $7, compared to the price for the Kill light, and get a more versatile and powerful light that includes an on/off pressure switch.  For home defense – an Ozark Armament 600 Lumen Light for $50 at https://www.amazon.com/Ozark-Armament-Remote-Pressure-Switch/dp/B06XH9JX3N/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1529773216&sr=1-2&keywords=ozark+600&linkCode=sl1&tag=pewpewtac-20&linkId=22f1c282f3dc179e3bcc0ccea237d094 (the bundle includes a Picatinny single rail mount, ready to be installed on Magpul 7 slot rail section – see #5 below; water resistant; lifetime warranty against any and all defects).  It comes with an on/off pressure switch.
3. Magpul M-LOK Cantilever Rail/Light Mount, Aluminum.  $33 at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MRB09NI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.  It will mount directly to your M-LOK rail, either one of the sides or the bottom, as far forward as possible.  This is not needed if you buy the Orion H40-W LED Tactical Flashlight, Ozark Armament 600 Lumen Light, or current Exclusive Wildlife Kill Light 250 XLR Flashlights (see #2 above).  They are only needed for the Odepro KL52Plus Zoomable Hunting Flashlight and older Exclusive Wildlife Kill Light 250 XLR Flashlights without a low profile Picatinny rail mount.
4. Magpul angled foregrip. $35 at https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/magpul-afg2-angled-foregrip.  If you do a lot of shooting by just gripping your M-LOK rail you had better wear some thick gloves.  This foregrip also gives you better control of your rifle.  It should be mounted to your M-LOK bottom rail on a Magpul 7 slot rail section – see #5 below.
5. Magpul 7 slot rail section for the foregrip (see #4 above).  You won’t be able to mount the foregrip on a M-LOK rail without a rail section.  You can get one at https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-M-LOK-Polymer-Rail-Slots/dp/B00PDKO7LU/ref=pd_bxgy_1/135-1955353-2153913?pd_rd_w=MwdyG&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=NRY3WTJWPSMBXHSDYTVG&pd_rd_r=20f1222b-d540-4dfe-b90d-db4cb8a6d99f&pd_rd_wg=559Nc&pd_rd_i=B00NTZ5738&th=1 for $13.
6. EZshoot 2 Point Sling and Quick Release Sling Mount. $12 at https://www.ebay.com/itm/255104091413?hash=item3b65638515:g:lVQAAOSw2ftgutUb.  Slings make it easy to carry your rifle from your vehicle to your stand while you’re also carrying other stuff.  Also, if you’re just going to be stalking through the woods, a sling will put your rifle’s weight on your shoulders instead of your arms.
7. Magpul ASAP – Ambidextrous Sling Attachment Point.  $27 at https://www.opticsplanet.com/magpul-asap-sling-plate.html.  This may not be needed if you have studs on your forearm and stock to attach a sling.
8. Back Up Iron Sights (BUIS).  They’re mainly for home defense where a scope may make hitting a moving intruder difficult.  I got an open box one here for $26 – https://daggerdefense.com/products/open-box-dagger-defense-tactical-flip-buis-picatinny-rail-mounted-backup-iron-sights.  There wasn’t a scratch of ding on them.  However, if your scope isn’t mounted high you might have to use an angled BUIS like these (also $26) – https://daggerdefense.com/products/open-box-dagger-defense-flip-buis-45-degree-picatinny-rail-mounted-backup-iron-sights.  They mount directly to your Picatinny top rail – no Magpul rail section is needed.

What 5-gallon deer feeder and feeder battery charger should I get?

Does the Club go deer hunting?  Does the Club hunt hogs for food, or is the intent just to kill them and leave them?

The Club rarely goes on day deer hunts.  As a lot of day leases are over hunted, I, as I’m in charge of big game hunts, only arrange day deer hunts with people who I know (and who let me know that they’re willing to let us hunt on their land).  Since 1988, we’ve only had five semi-guided day deer hunts.

Most of our deer hunters are either on season or year-round leases, so they’re not interested in also going on day deer hunts.  They’ve invested a lot of money in stands, feeders, corn, and maintaining their lease, so they have no interest in paying to hunt a place somewhere else that has worse odds (because they’re over hunted) than the places that they’re season or year-round leasing.

We require hunters to take home the meat that they harvest or donate it to the needy.  In our history, we’ve only had two hunters who didn’t want the hogs they shot, but other hunters took the meat home.  The following is in our Rules of Conduct – “Participants agree to: Never kill or shoot at birds or animals that they do not intend to eat or are not doing so to assist in wildlife depredation (e.g., shooting at sparrows and dragonflies.”

What decoys do I need for duck hunting?

Why not use a 20 gauge?

A 20 gauge has two distinct advantages.

The first is weight.  They’re between a 1/2 – 1 lb. lighter than the same model 12 gauge and their shells are lighter.  Again, given the above example, 1/8 ounce/shell = 3.125 ounces/box.  As most of the dove hunters that I know carry three boxes of shells with them in the field, that’s 9.375 ounces or a little more than half a pound.  For the 12 gauge dove hunter, a one pound heavier gun and half-pound heavier shells can mean a more fatigued hunter who will start to miss easy shots.  So, if you’re going to only hunt dove-sized game birds and shoot clay targets, a 20 gauge is a good choice.

The second is recoil.  Generally a 20 gauge of the same make and model will kick less than a 12 gauge.  However, there are exceptions.  Generally, the lighter the gun the more it will kick.  Just about the hardest kicking gun that I owned was a Franchi AL-48 recoil-operated 20 gauge that weighed five pounds.  I quickly traded it.  Recoil is more of a consideration for kids, people of smaller stature, and people who have sustained shoulder or neck injuries.  It’s also a consideration for heavier loads.

However, a 20 gauge has two distinct disadvantages.

The first is payload.  A 20 gauge has less pellets, given the same load type (for example, game load compared to game load).  For example, with 8 shot, a 1 oz. field load 20 gauge = 400 pellets.  A 1 1/8 oz. field load 12 gauge = 450 pellets.  The increased payload of the 12 gauge makes a big difference with ducks/pheasants and larger game birds or animals.  However, if your targets are only going to be dove-sized game birds or clay targets, then there isn’t a lot of difference (usually 12.5%) between the 12 gauge and 20 gauge payloads, given the same load type.

The second is cost.  To equal the payload of a 12 gauge 1 oz. game load you’d have to buy a 20 gauge 1 oz. field load, which will cost $1.50 – $2 more per box than a box of 12 gauge game loads, or $15 – $20 more per case.  Most hunters don’t want to pay more to get the same firepower.  But again, if you can live with 1/8 ounce less shot than the equivalent 12 gauge load type (i.e., game load to game load), you won’t have to spend more money.

The bottom line – if your targets are only going to be dove-sized game birds or clay targets and you aren’t bothered by having a 12.5% less payload compared to the same load type in 12 gauge, then a 20 gauge is a fine choice.  But if you plan to hunt ducks/pheasants or larger game birds or animals, you’ll probably find a 20 gauge lacking.

What caliber rifle should I get for my kiddo for deer and hogs?

The .243 is the minimum caliber that most manufacturers/sellers recommend for deer-sized game.  In fact, the Independence Ranch (where we used to hunt hogs) doesn’t allow anything smaller than a .243 to be used to hunt their hogs.  It’s offered in 80 and 100 grain loads, with the former being preferred for varmints and the latter being preferred for deer-sized game.  It’s the best choice for kids and many adults.  The 6mm Creedmoor and 6mm Remington (both are .244 caliber) have similar cartridge offerings to the .243, but their ammo is harder to find, as they’re not nearly as popular as the .243.

Don’t get anything in the .224 family (.223, .22-250, etc.).  Most of the loads for those calibers are varmint loads.  It says so right on the boxes.  Deer-sized game is not what they were designed for.  The few cartridges that are designed for deer-sized game use 62 grain loads or larger.  The 100 grain .243 has a 38% larger bullet.  With the .224 family there is less room for error so the hunter must have better shot placement than they would with calibers that are designed for deer-sized game.  Yes, many people have killed lots of deer-sized game with them, but most of those hunters have years of experience and have become expert shots.  Most kids don’t have years of experience and aren’t expert shots.  Put a .224 in their hands and you’ll be looking at a long track, and very possibly not recovering the game, which will cause it needless pain and suffering.  If  an inexperienced/not an expert shot kid uses a cartridge designed for deer-sized game, you probably won’t have a long track or any at all, and the game will expire quickly.

Don’t get anything bigger, such as a 6.5 Creedmoor, .25-06, .270, .280, 7mm-08, .308, .30-06, .30-30, etc.  They kick a lot more and your kiddo possibly will never want to shoot again.  Don’t get them any cartridge with the word “Magnum” in it’s name.  They can graduate to bigger calibers as they age/get bigger.  Also, .25-06, .280, 7mm-08, and .30-30 ammo are harder to find, as they’re not nearly as popular as the 6.5 Creedmoor, .270, .308, and .30-06.

For freshwater fishing here in central Texas, have you heard of any spot with good fishing reports that could be fished from the bank?  I’m wanting to take some friends who do not fish that much to a great spot.  But I don’t have access to a boat.

I have a buddy who is an avid hunter but has been fighting a good fight over the last couple of years with Chronic Fatigue Syndrome.  It would really be a special deal to get this guy out on a hog hunt.  The problem is he gets really tired real quick so not able to do a lot of walking/stalking and has to be a close drive from cedar park.  Are you aware of any place within a 30-45 min drive from Cedar Park that I could take him hog hunting?  We will use my night vision and thermals and really would not need a guide unless the property owner would require it.

The vast majority of hog hunts on game ranches are semi-guided (the guide shows you where the stands, feeders, cleaning station, and gut dump are and then leaves you on your own).  Rarely do game ranches allow self-guided hunts.  Rarer still do they offer fully guided hunts.

Some ranches have more success with group stalks.  Others have more success with stand hunting.  I’ve had success with both, although stalking should be limited to daylight hours.

Some ranches are geared for night hunting, with motion-activated lights under their feeders.  Some just have stands and feeders.

Unfortunately, hog hunting is an exhausting endeavor.  For example, Burl Fulenwider and I hunted last weekend at a ranchette just outside of Austin (unfortunately that property is no longer an option as the owners will move into their house on 6/1/21 and the wife wants all hunting activities to cease before then).  We arrived at 7:45 PM on Friday and hunted a makeshift stand until 3:30 AM on Saturday (and only saw five deer).  I got home at 4:00 AM and I’m still feeling the effects of staying up that late four days later.  We also just had four hunters hunt on a ranch near Rocksprings (186 miles away).  Two hogs were killed and one was missed.  All shots were during daylight hours.  They didn’t see anything at night, which is typically when you see hogs, as they’re predominantly nocturnal.

Unfortunately, I don’t know of any reasonable ranches within a 30 – 45 minute drive of Cedar Park.  Most hog hunting ranches are further east, south, west, or north.  Our previous hunt was near Crockett, 170 miles away.  The hunt before that was near Gonzales, 82 miles away.

How does someone get involved in the Austin Christian Bass Club?

I was a member of ACBC for two years, probably a decade ago.  They’re a great group of guys and I enjoyed fishing with them, but found that trying to keep up with my FCS duties, attend 40+ FCS events a year (on average), and fish with the ACBC guys was too much for me to handle (and stay married), so I stopped going to their tournaments and meetings.

Back then, the annual dues were $24.  They might be higher now.  The way that their tournaments worked is the rigger paid for the boat and vehicle gas and the non-rigger paid for the tournament entry fee.  Back then it was $20.  It’s probably higher now.  I can’t remember how boat ramp fees/park entrance fees were handled.

Back when I was a member, they met on the third Thursday evening each month and fished the following Saturday (I think that they’re still doing it that way).  Teams are chosen by drawing.  They put all the riggers in one cap and the non-riggers in another.  A rigger won’t fish with a rigger.  They don’t allow you to fish with someone more than once a year – this encourages a fisherman to get to know more men.

Tournaments are “paper” tournaments (bass are not kept).  You record the bass that you catch on their weight sheet.  Then you add up your best five.  It’s based on the honor system.  Tournament prizes are either trophies or small brass plates to put on a perpetual plaque.  They primarily fish local lakes (Fayette, Decker, Austin, Travis, Bastrop, and Stillhouse Hollow were their favorites when I was a member) but they have one tournament a year at a lake that is considerably further away (e.g., Richland Chambers).

Here is their website.  Here is their Contact Us web page.  I don’t see a way to join on their website, so I recommend that you contact them to find out what their procedures are.

Do you know of any company or individuals that do gun bluing work very well?

I had McBride’s Guns redo a shotgun barrel for me once with a matte finish.  Saltwater from duck hunting at the coast had started to make the barrel bluing splotchy.  However, within two years it started doing it again.  So I sold that gun and bought a camo one.

My cousin wants to come to Texas and go fishing with me.  Where do you suggest I take him and when do you think is the best time?

If you plan to bank fish, here is a list of Fishing Holes in the Austin Area.  Be aware that I haven’t updated the list since May 2019.

Mornings are usually best, as they wake up hungry.  Spring is generally the best time of year to fish.  Before the spawn, they’re eating like crazy to survive the spawn.  Bedded bass rarely eat during the spawn.  After the spawn, they’re trying to regain their lost weight.  They’ll spawn when the water temperature hits 60 degrees.   They usually spawn in mid to late March in central Texas.

Rather than bank fish or rent a boat, I recommend hiring a guide.  I highly recommend Ander Meine of Bassquash Fishing.  He’s a great teacher.

I also might be able to take the two of you on a self-chartered freshwater fishing trip, but it will have to fit my schedule, and, as you know, I’m fairly busy.  I guarantee you that we wouldn’t do as well as y’all would with Ander.

Do you use Loctite to keep fiberoptic shotgun sights from pivoting right or left?

I know you duck hunt Granger, but have you ever bass fished it?  If you have, could you tell me anything about it?  Where did you put in?  Did you ever fish the river?

TPWD rates it poor for largemouths.  See Fishing Granger Lake.  I’ve never caught a largemouth there – only white bass.  It’s an excellent crappie and catfish lake.

The entire lake is surrounded by Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) – Sorefinger, Pecan Grove (below the dam), San Gabriel, and Willis Creek and parks Fox, Taylor, Willis Creek, and Friendship (going clockwise from the dam).  Here is a map of the lake – https://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/granger/Brochures/Granger%20Lake%20Map.pdf.

The San Gabriel WMA has a lot of stumps and trees in the water and the Willis Creek WMA has a lot of trees in the water. Straying from the channel in the San Gabriel WMA and on the San Gabriel River is foolish.  I usually hit six stumps on my way (at idle speed) to where we hunt in the dark and hit six more on the way back to the ramp in the daylight.  I’ve seen bass boats blowing through the channel at 50 MPH, which borders on suicidal.

The lake’s water level varies considerably, so there are plenty of stumps that you can see when the lake is at its normal pool but if the lake raises a foot or two you won’t’ see them, and then – Wham!

Therefore, I recommend that you fish the Sorefinger WMA if you still want to fish it.  It has a lot fewer trees and stumps.  There is a 24-hour ramp at Friendship Park, which is on the east border of the Sorefinger WMA.  It’s on FM 971, near the dam.

You would think that with all the timber that the bass fishing would be good, but that’s definitely not the case.

Where I can get hog hunting lights like yours, either red or green?

I paid $123 for my Texasboars.com three red light unit (see the picture below) about 15 years ago.  It doesn’t have a motion detector feature.  I just clip the alligator clips on a 12-volt battery.  It also works on a 6-volt battery, but not well – the one time that I used a 6-volt battery I couldn’t see my crosshairs in my scope.  Since I bought my light they have continued to improve them and their prices have skyrocketed.  Their top of the line light, which illuminates 5200+ square yards, now sells for $349 – see https://texasboars.com/shop/recon-rv718-feederlight-c-65.html.  Their second best light, which illuminates 2000+ square yards, sells for $235 – see https://texasboars.com/shop/recon-rv709-feederlight-c-66.html.  Their least expensive light, which illuminates 1375 square yards, sells for $86 – see https://texasboars.com/shop/prohunter-feederlight-c-67.html.

This picture was taken from 17 yards away.

I paid $40 for my green Moultrie light (see the picture below).  It screws into the bottom of my 5-gallon Moultrie feeder.  I got it at Tractor Supply online (at https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/moultrie-feeder-hog-light?cm_mmc=SEM-_-Google-_-DynamicAdGroups-_-AllSiteTSCExtAd&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhIP6BRCMARIsALu9Lfmh3J5Qf4xQYroB2X3MxHPV-2AJcac9z0BdMn_W5P6xDzt-71wis6AaAvRYEALw_wcB) in the early summer of 2020.  Academy also sells them.  They operate on four C cell batteries.  I read that their motion detector is iffy, but it works on mine.  Mine died after six months but Moultrie sent me a new one.  I also bought a solar panel for it and have sent it back twice.  I don’t recommend it.

This picture was taken from 15 yards away (the picture was enlarged).

I’m really impressed with All Seasons Feeders feeder mechanisms, so I’ll bet their lights are great too.  This one is solar-powered, and sells for around $149 – see https://www.allseasonsfeeders.com/collections/huniting-accessories/products/asf-boar-light-xt.  Here is it’s little brother, which sells for $69 – see https://www.allseasonsfeeders.com/collections/huniting-accessories/products/lil-squealer.

I and several other FCS guys own and love KillLight250 flashlights made by Elusive Wildlife Technologies.  Here are a few of their hog lights:

• This one has a remote control with a solar panel.  It usually sells for $250 – see https://elusivewildlife.com/shop/on-sale/kill-lightr-outfitter-rf-remote-control-with-adjustable-solar-panel.html.
• This one has a remote control.  It sells for $200 – see https://elusivewildlife.com/shop/on-sale/kill-lightr-outfitter-with-remote-control.html.
• This one is motion-activated.  It sells for $170 – see https://elusivewildlife.com/shop/on-sale/kill-light-outfitter-solar-powered-feeder-light-motion-activated-feeder-light.html.
• This is their cheapest motion-activated/solar light.  It attaches to the bottom of a feeder and sells for $50 –  see https://elusivewildlife.com/shop/on-sale/kill-lightr-sportsman-motion-activated-feeder-light.html.

Sniper Hog Lights is another brand that people swear by.  Their Exterminator III sells for $390 – see https://sniperhoglights.com/exterminator-iii-feeder-light/.

What is the best fish finder to buy under 1K?  I looked at the Garmin Echomap.

Lowrance, Humminbird, and Garmin are the Ford’s, Chevy’s, and Dodge’s of the fish finder world.  You really can’t go wrong with any of them.

I have the Humminbird Helix 7.  My Minn Kota trolling motor is supposed to plot using the Helix, but I’ve never messed with it, as it’s on my center console.

A couple of friends love the Garmin Livescope, but they’re $2,500.

Here are some articles:

• https://www.sonarwars.com/best-finders-under-1000/.  The first one that they listed (the Garmin Echomap UHD 93sv) Bass Pro will have on sale for $600 from 11/23 – 11/29.
• https://infisherman.com/best-fish-finder-undusable
• https://youtu.be/AX9OUvxc5NE
• https://youtu.be/NcAwxZ56j2Y– another vote for the Garmin Echomap UHD 93sv
• https://youtu.be/FUk4EVtdOUg
• https://fishfinderbrand.com/best-fish-finder-gps-combos-under-1000/.  They really like Raymarine – I’m not familiar with them.

My son and I have never been deer hunting and were hoping to go this winter.  I do not see any events on your calendar for this.  Is that correct?  If you do not have a deer hunting event, where do you recommend going for beginners?

7/1/21 Update:

Kevin McConnell report that he has been a hunt master for the Texas Youth Hunting Program (TYHP) for over 20 years.  The Austin Woods and Waters club runs the largest youth hunt in the world every year out of Cave Creek, near Fredericksburg.  See http://TYHP.org to register and apply for the hunt.  It is usually the first or second weekend of January.  Let him know if you have any questions at kmcaustin@gmail.com.  Tom Hewitt reports that the TYHP is the largest in the USA.  Allen Hansen reports that TYHP does over 100 hunts a year.

Marc Ritter reported that the Safari Club International had/has? a youth hunt program with land owners to cull does.  For example, here’s an article on a ranch in Michigan that allowed youth hunters to harvest deer – Legends Ranch Hosts Special Youth Challenge Hunts for SCIF Youth Pathfinders.  Tom Hewitt reports that SCI clubs in Texas supports youth hunting organizations.  Dallas Safari Club, not affiliated with SCI, supports youth organizations.

Jim Bradley reports that the Texas Wildlife Association and TPWD has a Youth Hunting Program.

Tom Hewitt also reports that Operation Orphans actively offers children in homes the opportunity to be outdoors at host ranches.

We don’t have much demand for deer day hunts.  In our 31-year history, we have had five deer day hunts.  The vast majority of the guys in the Club who deer hunt are on season-long or year-round leases.  A problem with day hunt ranches is a lot of them are over hunted and, therefore, you don’t see many deer.

Here are four websites that advertise leases (including day leases):

• Deer Texas Hunting Leases
• Hunting Lease Locator Service (their list costs $40)
• Texas Hunting Lease
• TPWD

And here are six Facebook Groups that advertise leases (you must join the groups):

• Texas Hunting & Deer Leases
• Texas Hunting and Deer Leases (they ripped off the first site’s name)
• Texas Hunting Leases and Day Hunts
• Texas Hunting Leases and Outfitters
• Texas Hunting Guides & Outfitters
• Texas Cheap Hunts and Fishing (this site tends to focus on day hunts)

Unfortunately, I don’t have a specific ranch/outfitter that I can recommend to you.  My advice is to find ones at the locations that you want to hunt in (or the distance that you want to travel) and within your price range and Google reviews on them.  If there have been bad experiences, people are quick to let the world know.  Generally speaking, South Texas has the biggest-racked deer and is the most expensive, Central Texas has the most deer, and West Texas, East Texas, and the Panhandle have the fewest deer North Texas comes has the second most deer.

Fort Hood allows deer hunting, but with quite a few strict rules, as one would expect on an Army base, such as you can’t go beyond sight of your blind while looking for a wounded deer and they will pick you up at a specific time (and you had better be where you’re supposed to be at that time).  Hunters hunt from box blinds.  See https://fthood.isportsman.net/.

The United States Army Corps of Engineers also offers deer hunts on some of their lakes.  See https://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/lake/SWF_Hunting_Guide_Final_2020_2021.pdf.

I’ve also read about good hunts on the Caddo/LBJ Grasslands.

I’ve done a lot of walk-in duck hunting up at Granger and the coast and have had a lot of trouble with hunters setting up on top of me.  Obviously, that’s public hunting at its finest.  Do you have any recommended walk-in areas where you’ve done well?

Granger – that’s a tough one, as the entire lake (except the parks) can be walked into, as it’s surrounded by Wildlife Management Areas (WMA’s).  However, the San Gabriel WMA gets less traffic than the Sore Finger and Willis Creek WMAs.  The problem there is if you go up the river you’ll be setting out your dekes where guys drive their boats.  I’d park at the end of CR 378 (Number 5 on https://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/granger/Brochures/Granger%20Lake%20Map.pdf). Also see https://www.google.com/maps/@30.6860252,-97.4030205,14z?hl=en.  Granger gets a lot of traffic from Austin hunters.

The Coast – walking in at the coast is a whole lot tougher as the bottom can be really sticky.  I’ve seen walk-in hunters at Wilson’s Cut on Hwy 361 between Corpus Christi and Port A (about five miles north of Corpus Christi).

Here are other lakes that I’ve done walk-in hunts at:

Belton – tougher as there are only three WMA’s where you can walk in – Owl Creek WMA (very tough walking with lots of trees and vines to trip over if you come in from Grove Road – so come in from Owl Creek Park – https://www.google.com/maps/@31.2234113,-97.5270029,15z?hl=en), White Flint WMA (https://www.google.com/maps/@31.2337599,-97.4790235,15z?hl=en – the problem with this area is the water by shore can be too deep for your dekes; there’s a pond in that WMA that sometimes has water in it, but it’s surrounded by trees, which makes shooting challenging), and Iron Bridge WMA (https://www.google.com/maps/@31.304313,-97.4931195,15z?hl=en but you’ll have the same problem there as you will going up the San Gabriel on Granger – the river will be too skinny to set out decoys).  Also, Belton has some of the stickiest mud that I’ve ever encountered.  Belton gets a lot of traffic from Fort Hood hunters.  See https://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/belton/images/BELTON_LAKE_OVERALL_RECREATION_MAP.pdf for more details.

Stillhouse Hollow – Even tougher as there are only two WMA’s to walk in to – at the end of Union Grove Road in the Union Grove WMA – https://www.google.com/maps/@31.0117237,-97.5982209,16z?hl=en and south and west of Cedar Gap Park (https://www.google.com/maps/@31.016002,-97.6527159,15z?hl=en – it’s a long walk to get to huntable areas and if you go up the river in a boat you’ll run into the same problem that you’ll find going up the San Gabriel on Granger or in the Iron Bridge WMA on Belton – you’ll be putting your dekes out where guys will come through with their boats).  The point to the north in the Union Grove WMA is a good spot, but if you want to get away from the other hunters, head east.  Stillhouse gets a lot of traffic from Fort Hood hunters.  See https://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/stillhouse/images/STILLHOUSE_HOLLOW_OVERALL_RECREATION_MAP.pdf for more details.

Somerville – the toughest as there is only one day hunt area to walk in to – the “cup bottom” to the east of the end of Iron Bridge Rd. (https://www.google.com/maps/@30.2901251,-96.6281178,16z?hl=en).  The shortest walk involves parking at the end of Iron Bridge Rd. and heading east.  Be aware that it’s almost as thick there as it is at the Owl Creek WMA, so skirt the shore if you can.  You can also park at the end of Frischer Rd., but it’s a longer walk to get to the “cup bottom” to the west (see https://www.google.com/maps/@30.2898657,-96.619685,16z?hl=en).  Somerville gets a lot of traffic from College Station hunters.  See https://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/somerville/Information/Waterfowl%20Hunting%20Lake%20Map.pdf for more details.

As to how I’ve done:

• Granger – three good walk-in hunts in the San Gabriel WMA.
• Stillhouse Hollow – one good walk-in hunt in the Union Grove WMA.
• Belton and Somerville – no good walk-in hunts.  In fact, for Belton, I’ve had no good hunts via boat either and for Somerville, I’ve had one good hunt via boat (it was in the walk-in area before I knew that you had to hunt from shore in that area).

So, I’d focus on Granger and Stillhouse Hollow for walk-in hunts.

You must possess the Annual Public Hunting Permit to hunt Granger.  The other three do not require it (unless you go into the boats-only section of Somerville (with a boat) that is leased by the TPWD).  Here is the United States Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) Fort Worth District Hunting Guide.

My massage guy’s brother has started manufacturing 9mm with some Army friends as a business and has a large capacity press.  I am considering buying a brick of 500 9mm 115-grain bullets for $350.  What are other details I should ask and know before deciding?  The projectile type, powder measurements, etc.?  Do you know of a reliable source for ammo that I should review first?

The pressure of the rounds should not be greater than the recommended maximum pressure – 35,000 psi.  However, as these are undoubtedly target rounds (FMJ) that shouldn’t be a problem.  Another thing to be concerned about is the cases.  Brass cases are preferred, followed by aluminum, then steel.  Some guns have trouble chambering and/or ejecting aluminum and/or steel cased ammo.  As these are Army guys I’d bet my lunch that they’ll be brass.

Lastly, foreign components (cases, powder, primers, and bullets) can be a concern.  However, again, as these are Army guys I’d bet my lunch and dinner that everything is at military specifications (Mil-Spec) and made in the USA.

Be aware that some gun manufacturers will void their warranty if you shoot non-factory ammo and especially if you shoot reloads.  Your gun’s manufacturer may consider these shells to be reloaded.  I recommend that you read your warranty and check with your gun’s manufacturer if in doubt.

Gunbroker has a lot of ammo for sale from businesses and individuals.  Most are in cases of 10 or more boxes.  They have auctions like eBay and “Buy it now.”  That price is in line with prices that I’ve seen on Gunbroker.  Academy, when it has them, doesn’t allow you to buy more than three boxes.

David Featherston shared the following:

Just FYI, I’ve found Academy (in Sunset Valley on Brodie Lane) to be the BEST price on 9mm ammo these days (Federal, Winchester, etc. brands).  I just bought a box of 200 (full metal jacket) for $49.99 and a box of 100 for $26.99.  You just need to call ahead of time to see if it is in stock for a certain morning during the week.  They accommodate folks by opening at 8:30 vs. 9:00 am only for ammo seekers.  Their limit is 3 people at a time, so you need to start standing in line about 8:00 or 8:15.  They limit you to 3 boxes of any kind… no matter the quantity in the box.  The Brodie Lane store says that Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday mornings are typically when they have new stock ready to sell.

They’re not gouging anyone and I sure appreciate that!  (I tell them each time I go.)

What baitcaster rod and reel combo is your pick?  Do you do a right-handed or left-handed retrieve?

I don’t spend more than $100 for a rod/reel combo.  To me, there’s not much difference between a $100 combo and a $150 combo in performance.

Bass Pro Shops

This one has good reviews, including one from a beginner – https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-100187478.  I’d get the 7′ medium rod strength (Jack-of-all-trades) version.

This one also had good reviews – https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/abu-garcia-mlf-baitcast-combo.  It only comes in a 7′ version.  Get the medium instead of the medium-heavy rod.

But if you’re willing to spend more then this is the one to get – https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/Abu-Garcia-Revo-SXBass-Pro-Shops-Johnny-Morris-CarbonLite-20-Baitcast-Rod-and-Reel-Combo.  The Revo has an excellent reputation.  Its drawbacks are the rod only comes in medium-heavy and it’s out of stock.

Academy

Lew’s combos (they have a good reputation) that are worth looking at include:

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/lews-speed-spool-lfs-7-ft-mh-baitcast-rod-and-reel-combo#repChildCatid=8216508.  It has three 5-star reviews.  It comes with a 7′ rod, in medium-heavy only.

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/lews-mach-smash-slp-6-ft-10-in-mh-baitcast-combo#repChildCatid=8190502.  Similar reviews to the first one and it’s $20 cheaper.  It comes with a 6′ 10″ rod, in medium-heavy only.

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/lews%C2%AE-american-hero%C2%AE-7-mh-baitcast-rod-and-reel-combo#repChildCatid=1480325.  It’s cheaper than the last one but has better reviews.  It comes with a 7′ rod, in medium-heavy only.

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/lews-laser-txs-6-ft-10-in-mh-baitcast-rod-and-reel-combo#repChildCatid=7988009.   It comes with a 6′ 10″ rod, in medium-heavy only.

For rods, I go by feel.  I fake cast them in the store.  If it feels like a broom handle or like a whip I put it back on the rack.  Both Bass Pro Shops and Academy have sales on combos frequently.  Academy sometimes runs all of their combos 25% off.

Probably 95% of right-handed guys go with a right-handed retrieve.  However, some don’t like casting the rod with their right hand and then switching it to their left hand to hold it while the right-hand is retrieving the lure, as that takes a couple of seconds of precious fishing time to make that switch.  To me, it feels awkward to retrieve with my left hand.  However, that may just be because that’s the way I’ve always done it.  Try them both and see what feels best for you.

What bullet types should I use for a .300 Blackout AAC for hog hunting?

It’s important to know when using a .300 Blackout to hunt medium-sized game such as hogs and deer, that it is a short-range caliber.  Supersonic ammo is limited to 200 yards and subsonic ammo is limited to 150 yards?, preferably a lot less.

The .300 Blackout was designed to provide a bullet that was a more viable medium-sized option for the AR platform than a .223, which was originally designed for varmints.  It was also designed to shoot suppressed and when it comes to suppressors, slower is better.  A subsonic round lacks the supersonic crack.  A suppressor only stops the blast at the muzzle – it does nothing for the supersonic crack.  A subsonic round through a suppressor is nice and quiet – although not movie-quiet.  A supersonic round through a suppressor defeats the purpose of the suppressor.

So, if you’re going to use a suppressor then use subsonic rounds, which is what they were designed for.  And if you’re going to shoot subsonic rounds then you need to do headshots on hogs (behind the eye to the ear – some guys shoot them in the ear) because the bullet is moving too slow to expand.  By doing so you’ll either kill them instantly and they’ll take a “dirt nap” or you’ll miss and they’ll run away.  Tracking a wounded hog at night is not easy and potentially dangerous.  A headshot eliminates the need to track.

With headshots, especially on big hogs with thick skulls, penetration is key.  If you shoot a hog with a bullet that is designed for the vitals (e.g., a hollow point or expanding soft point) it may flatten on the skull and not penetrate or adequately penetrate.  The solution is a solid, non-expanding bullet, such as a full metal jacket (FMJ).  This is where subsonic rounds with solid bullets really shine.

A 190+ grain solid core bullet in a .300 Blackout (such as a Sellier & Bellot Subsonic FMJ 200 grain) is moving a lot slower (1060 Feet Per Second – FPS) than a 125 grain or 110 grain expanding bullet (which travel at around 2200 FPS).  It is, without a doubt, the best bullet for head shooting hogs.  But you never should use a FMJ when shooting hogs or deer in the vitals, as they don’t expand and that won’t ensure humane kills.  Some ammo makers make supersonic hollow points for the .300 blackout but those bullets are designed to be shot into the vitals, not the head.  Some people say they don’t adequately expand to ensure a one-shot kill.  I’ve yet to have a chance to try one, but when I do I’ll revise this section.

If you’re not using a suppressor then an expanding fast bullet is the way to go, such as the copper Barnes VOR-TX Tipped Triple-Shock X Hollow Point 110 grain.  Barnes is a premium ammo maker and the VOR-TX Tipped Triple-Shock X Hollow Point comes at a premium price ($40 for 20 rounds, if you can find it).  With that bullet and similar ones, you should shoot hogs and deer in the vitals where the bullet’s expanding qualities can be maximized.  As it penetrates it’s also going to expand.  As it expands it leaves a wake of destruction which increases your chances of a one-hit kill.  This is a humane round that will put a hog or deer down without issue if you shoot it in the vitals.  Just don’t shoot a hog in the head with one.

I want to buy a rifle and scope for hog hunting.  I’d prefer for it to kick less than a .243.  My budget is $1500.

I do not recommend anything below a .243 with a 100-grain bullet for hogs.  The .243 is the minimum caliber that most manufacturers/sellers recommend for deer-sized game.  It’s offered in 80 and 100 grain loads, with the latter being preferred for deer-sized game.  The problem with .224 bullets, such as the .223/5.56, is they were designed for varmints (just look at the boxes of their typical 55-grain ammo and they’ll tell you what they were designed for).  Over the years the ammo makers developed heavier bullets for those calibers (typically 62-grain and up) to make them usable for up to deer-sized game.  But if a 300 lb.+ hog comes to your bait I would want to be holding something with more power.  You can kill hogs with .22’s but you have to hit them in the ear or just behind it, which is not easy to do in the dark (which is usually when hogs are out and about).  Nor is it easy to hit that spot with their frequently moving heads.

As you would like something that kicks a little less than a .243, going with a lesser caliber is not the answer.  A semi-auto will kick less than a bolt action, pump, or lever action (I guarantee you that a .300 Blackout in an AR kicks less than a bolt action .243).  Browning (BAR), Remington (Model 7500), and Benelli (R1) make semi-automatic rifles but none of them are as accurate or customizable as AR’s.  Typical AR’s are offered in calibers that are good choices for hogs.  These include (in my order of preference):

1. .300 Blackout AAC (commonly called .300 Blackout) – it’s .308 caliber and the .223 is the parent cartridge (you can use these shells in AR .223 magazines).  It was designed to shoot suppressed with subsonic rounds.  It’s not a long-range cartridge, but hog hunting is not a long-range sport.  I bought one a couple of months ago and can’t wait to try it out on a piggie.  It hardly kicks at all and I don’t have a suppressor on mine (yet).  With a suppressor on it, the recoil will be minimal.
2. 6.5mm Creedmoor (commonly called 6.5 Creedmoor) – was actually developed in 2007 but is just becoming popular now.  It has a reputation for long-range accuracy.  It is a great caliber for hogs.  When I go to Academy I almost always see it on their shelves.  I see more discussions on it than any other caliber in the FB groups that I’m a member of.  There are many who think that it’s the cat’s meow.  It’s #2 on my list as it probably will kick more than the .300 Blackout and it’s not designed for suppressors.
3. .308 Winchester (very similar but not identical to the military 7.62x51mm NATO) – a fantastic caliber that can put down anything on this continent.  It has had two offspring – 7mm-08 and .243 and has very similar ballistics to the .30-06.  The one knock on it is AR’s that are chambered for it are not cheap (they’re called AR-10’s).  It’s #3 on my list due to the cost of the rifles.
4. 6.5mm Grendel (AKA 6.5 Grendel) and 6.8mm Remington Special Purpose Cartridge (AKA 6.8 SPC, 6.8 SPC II, and 6.8×43mm – has the .30 Remington as its parent cartridge) are both great calibers for hogs but ammo for them is very hard to find right now and expensive.  A gun is no good if you can’t find ammo for it.

Remington makes an AR (the R-25) with typical deer calibers (.243 Winchester, 7mm-08 Remington, .308 Winchester) but it’s very expensive ($1700 for just the rifle) and hard to find.

As to AR’s, there are several that have good reputations, including Colt, Bushmaster, SIG, Daniel Defense, Anderson, Springfield Armory, Ruger, DPMS, and many more.  But after a lot of research, I settled on two – the Diamondback DB15 and the CORE CORE15.  I watched a lot of YouTube reviews and read a lot of reviews and it was hard to find any that said anything that was less than flattering.  Best of all they have the best warranties in the industry.

I settled on the Diamondback DB15 in .300 Blackout as they were cheaper than the CORE and I only had 1K to spend (which is what I sold my O/U Classic Doubles shotgun for).  I got it new on Gunbroker for $655 (plus $25 shipping and a $20 FFL receiving fee).  I added a SIG Romeo 5 Red Dot ($132), two Magpul rail sections ($31 total), a Surefire flashlight (M300 is $269; mine was given to me by my son), a Magpul angled foregrip ($45; mine was given to me by my son), an EZshoot 2 Point Sling and Quick Release Sling Mount ($24), Tool Parts 1pcs Quick Detach Clamp-on Single Point Sling Swivel Attachment Buffer Tube Adapter – CN (a better place to attached your sling) ($15), and three 30-round  Magpul P-mags ($36).  So, I spent $941 on the above and my remaining $59 on ammo.

It has the following features:

• Pistol Length Gas Impingement System
• 4140 Chrome-Moly Free Float Barrel
• 1:8 Twist
• A2 Flash Hider
• 15″ Diamondback Aluminum Key Mod Handguard
• Shot-Peened, MPI Mil Spec 8620 Bolt Carrier
• A3 Flattop Forged 7075 T6 Aluminum, T-Marked Upper
• Forged 7075 T6 Aluminum Lower
• Collapsible Stock
• A2 Pistol Grip
• Anodized Black Finish
• Weight 6.65 Pounds
• Length 32.5″-36.25″

As to scopes, given your budget, you won’t be able to afford a Day/Night scope if you get everything that I listed above (although you won’t need the Red Dot and can do without the flashlight and three extra magazines for a hog hunting rifle).  But if you can swing it I’d get an ATN X-sight 4K Pro 3-14X for $650 (you can get a refurbished one with a full factory warranty – the same as a new one – at Walmart for $100 less).  A friend of mine bought one and let me look through it at night – it’s amazing!

But if that breaks the bank I’d get a Vortex Crossfire II Hog Hunter 3-12X56 with a 30mm tube, and V-brite illuminated reticle.  Amazon has them for $300.

For either of these options, you’ll need a cantilever style mount made for an AR-15 such as the Burris Optics P.E.P.R. Scope Mount, Includes Both Smooth and Picatinny Ring Tops, 30mm ($90 on Amazon).  The cool thing about using the Picatinny ring tops is it allows you to put a Red Dot on the Picatinny ring top (on top of the scope).  This will give you precision shots with the scope at standing still hogs and shots at running hogs with the Red Dot.  Don’t spend more money on the quick-detach version of the mount – you won’t need it (it’s for guys who put a rifle scope on their AR one day and a Red Dot on it the next).

Instead of the Surefire Weapons Light (which is used primarily for home defense), I’d get an Odepro KL52Plus Zoomable Hunting Flashlight.  It includes red, green, white, and IR850 infrared (invisible to the eye – must be used with night vision) lenses and adjustable focus.  It’s shockproof and has a rechargeable battery.  It’s water-resistant and has a Smart Remote on/off pressure switch with a button that makes no noise.  It shines out to 417 yards.  It includes two weapons mounts.  Best of all they’re $113.  Use the green light for hogs.

In summary, I recommend the following for a hog hunting rifle:

$700 – Diamondback DB-15 in .300 Blackout AAC

$650 – ATN X-sight 4K Pro 3-14X

$90 – Burris Optics P.E.P.R. Scope Mount, Includes Both Smooth and Picatinny Ring Tops, 30mm

$113 – Odepro KL52Plus Zoomable Hunting Flashlight with Red Green White and IR850 Light LED Lamps Remote Pressure Switch Hunting Kit

$16 – Magpul rail section (to hold the foregrip)

$45 – Magpul angled foregrip

$15 – Tool Parts 1pcs Quick Detach Clamp-on Single Point Sling Swivel Attachment Buffer Tube Adapter – CN

$24 – EZshoot 2 Point Sling and Quick Release Sling Mount

$1653

If you swap the Vortex Crossfire II for the ATN you’d be at $1291, which would give you plenty of money left over for ammo and be below $1500.

For other options see:

• Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle
• Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle Scope

My son lives in Seattle and wants to hunt deer and elk.  He wants some advice and any possible leads you might have for a good gun to use.  Do you recommend new or used?  What’s a good all-around gun with abundant and cheaper ammo?  30-06?   Plastic or wood stock?  Best reasonable scope?

Here are a couple of articles that will get you started:

• Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle
• Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle Scope

I haven’t updated the first article since 2009, so the prices for those guns are higher now.  Also, there are different versions of the manufacturers’ rifles or they offer new rifles entirely.  For example, Browning now offers an X-bolt, which is basically an A-bolt on steroids.

I updated the second article on 9/10/20.  I will eventually update the first article.

As to calibers, since elk is in the equation, I’d recommend at least a .270 or 7mm08.  I’d definitely go with the more popular calibers, especially right now, as there has been a substantial ammo shortage and your odds of finding ammo for a .280 Remington (for example) will be lower.  They’ve been making .30-06 since 1906 and it comes in bullet weights from 110 – 220 grains.  I’d use 150 – 165 grain on deer and 180 grain on elk.  The 6.5 Creedmore has become a very popular caliber and I see several boxes of it every time that I go to Academy.  It’s supposed to be a flat shooter.  But it’s only 0.2559, which would be iffy on elk (a .270 Winchester is actually .277).  My order of preference would be .30-06, .308 (very available ammo and just slightly less performance than the ’06), and .270.

I’d go with a bolt action, as I’m a traditionalist.  However, I recently bought an AR in .300 Blackout for hogs, and if the riots come to my neighborhood.  For years I despised them and called them “toy guns.”  But I’m starting to like it and upgrading parts and adding things is fun.  The problem with an AR is most are chambered in .223/5.56 which was designed for varmints (but they make a few deer capable bullets for it).  .300 Blackout is a short-range cartridge.  The 6.5 Grendel is very hard to find and expensive.  The ammo is very hard to find.  .308 would be your best bet but those AR-10’s are expensive.  Remington makes an AR with typical deer calibers but it’s very expensive.  Pumps aren’t as accurate.  Neither are lever actions with the exceptions of the Browning BLR and the Savage Model 99.  Lever actions have mostly short-ranged calibers (with the above exceptions).  All of the bolt guns in my article are accurate, reliable, and similarly priced.  The Remington will be the most readily available.  I have a Model 700 BDL but if I were buying today I’d buy the CDL with the box magazine.

As to where to find one – I’m seeing more rifles show up at Academy.  I’ve also had good luck on www.gunbroker.com  I’ve bought five guns there and sold three.  It’s like eBay.  There are auctions and “Buy it Now.”  You must have the rifle shipped to an FFL dealer (my son is now one, in Liberty Hill).  Gunbroker has a list of FFL dealers per state.  They all do the same service, so I’d go with the cheapest one.  For example, Ryan charges $20 to receive a gun.  Find the rifle you want and shop.  It doesn’t take long to find the best price.  Just know that what guys are asking for on gunbroker is often not what the going rate is.  Some guys ask a high price and are counting on guys who don’t like to shop or are impulsive.  Follow/watch some auctions that are going on for the gun you want.  When it sells it will show you what it sold for.

I bought a Browning Gold shotgun on eBay for $480 several years ago.  The going price at the time was $750.  The reason that it was cheaper was it came only with one screw-in full choke.  After I receive it I bought two new chokes (Improved Cylinder and Modified) at Academy for $20 each and had a complete gun for $520.  But I was patient – I looked for around six months to find that diamond in the rough.

I’m not averse to buying a used gun, although I’d avoid used AR’s.  They’re often shot to hell and back and you just never know what’s about to break.  There aren’t too many things that can break on a bolt-action.  If you use gunbroker you’ll get it in the mail, unless you can find one where they’re selling it where you live and allow it to be picked up.  Texas Gun Trader is 100% face-to-face exchanges.  So, if you buy a used one from gunbroker make sure that the ad allows an examination period/return policy. You might need to send it back if it is not in the condition that was advertised.  Good sellers will post several pictures of the gun they’re selling.  Beware of stock photos unless it’s new.  If you see that a new rifle is only $50 or so more than a used one buy it as you’ll get the warranty.

I’m a wood and blue steel guy but have come to appreciate synthetic.  For rifles, it doesn’t change the point of impact from the weather changing, which wood is notorious for.  So if you get wood make sure that the barrel has been floated (you should be able to slide a dollar bill all the way down the length of it).  I’m also a big fan of 2.5 – 3.5 lb. triggers.  Most factory triggers are set at 7.5 lbs. to avoid lawsuits.  A trigger job makes a rifle much more accurate.

I go into copious details in my Choosing a Scope article.  As he won’t be hunting hogs a 3-9X40 will be adequate.  I really like Vortex and Burris.  They both have forever warranties.  I have a Vortex Crossfire II 3-9X50 with an illuminated V-bright dot in the reticle on my deer rifle.  It cost me $209 new.  Optics Planet is a good place to get optics.  As is Midway USA, Natchez Shooting Supply, and even Amazon (which has competitive prices).  Find the scope you want and shop.  As with rifles, it doesn’t take long to find the best price.

What depths do the lures in the below pictures run?

On the top are plastic worms with some brass and beads for Carolina rigging and what looks like spinnerbait trailer hooks.  Worms will not sink unless you use a worm weight to make them sink.  Here is an assortment – https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-xps-60-piece-worm-weight-kit?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&affcode_c=&gclid=CjwKCAjwyo36BRAXEiwA24CwGfb5QuvO-GMBTNJ-asJtcPPOy0vEZbXdRBdK7aq6VFFmFZfSUw_vehoCOuAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Rigging tips – https://www.wideopenspaces.com/4-ways-to-rig-a-worm-weight/.

Texas rig – https://shopkarls.com/blog/texas-rig-101-need-know-t-rig/.

Carolina rig – https://officiallakeforktrophybass.com/how-to-setup-a-carolina-rig/.  Brass weights work best for Carolina rigs.  See https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-carolina-weights.

How quickly they sink depends on the weight you choose, which depends on the wind and worm size/weight.  They’ll eventually sink to the bottom.  Worm fishing is a very slow way to fish.  Be sure to use offset gap worm hooks in sizes 2/0 – 5/0 and not the spinnerbait trailer hooks that are in the picture.

The two square-bill crankbaits below the worms will run 4 – 6′ deep.  They’re great to use around trees and rocks, as they bounce off structure.  They, and round-bill crankbaits, only sink when you start to retrieve them.  Fish them medium to fast.  The faster you retrieve them the deeper they sink.  Stop and go is a good technique for them.  Stop the retrieve, wait for a second or two, then start it again.  The stop and go method makes bass think the baitfish is wounded.  They’ll often hit it when it stops.  However, don’t stop it for too long as it will float back up to the surface.

The three lipless crankbaits on the top left will sink about 1’/second for 3/4 ounce, 9″/second for 1/2 ounce, and 6″/second for 1/4 ounce.  Let them sink about 4′ and retrieve them medium to fast, like a fleeing baitfish.  Also, be careful using lipless crankbaits around rocks.  They will sometimes sink between two rocks and get stuck.

Below them is another square-bill crankbait.

To the right is a jerkbait.  A jerkbait dives 4 – 7′ unless it’s a weighted “count-down” version.  Those drop similarly to lipless crankbaits.  Here is how to fish them – https://www.onthewater.com/how-to-fish-a-jerkbait.

The top left and middle are Jitterbugs.  Below them are Hula Poppers.  To the right are Pop-R’s.  They are all topwater baits and don’t sink.  They’re designed to make splashes on the top, like a fleeing baitfish.  Fish then slow. Pop, wait for a second or two, and pop them again.  Topwaters work best early, late, at night, and when it’s overcast.

On the left side, is a spinnerbait.  It will sink similarly to a lipless crankbait. Fish them slow.  If bass are missing them, add one of your above spinnerbail trailer hooks.

The others are jointed swimbaits.  They’ll dive from 2 – 4′.  Fish them like crankbaits.  See https://youtu.be/K1cBq1QnC6U.

That’s a good assortment.  All that you need are frogs, propeller topwaters (Whopper Ploppers or Heddon Baby Torpedos), dog walkers (zig-zag topwater baits), Buzz Baits, round-bill crankbaits, chatterbaits (bladed jigs), jigs, more soft plastics (crawdads, lizards, grubs, Zoom Super Flukes, and creature baits like the Zoom Baby Brush Hog, and soft 4 – 5″ swimbaits on a 1/4 – 3/8 ounce swimbait head, like this one.

Is smoke-colored or dark green fishing line OK to fish with?  Is there a better color or “type” to use?

I wouldn’t hesitate to use either.  The line will look different under the water than it will out of it.  Also, a fish will see it differently than we will.  When light enters the water, its intensity quickly decreases, and its color changes.

Fluorocarbon line is touted by line companies as the most invisible line on the market. It is said to have the same light refraction properties as water, making it as invisible as fishing line can get.  It is well suited for all water clarities. This near-invisible quality of the line is the way to go in ultra-clear water and, theoretically, will lead to increased bites from spooky fish that are used to seeing line connected to lures.  But Fluoro is expensive – often costing twice as much as equivalent mono, or more.  It also sinks so you don’t want to use it for topwater lures.

There are many colors of mono.  Besides the two that you mentioned you can find it in light blue, yellow, and even red.  Supposedly blue is best for saltwater and yellow is best for muddy water.  Red is supposed to be near-invisible under the water, but divers say that red objects look black, so I’ve never tried it.  Green and smoke tend to blend in with water that is not ultra-clear or muddy.

Braided line typically comes in dark greens, smoke, or black.  It’s as expensive as Fluoro or more so.  It’s also tricky to fish with, especially using a baitcasting reel.  In my experience, when I get a backlash with braided line it often results in me having to remove all the line on the spool, as it has a tendency to dig into itself.  I use braided line for frogs and other soft plastics and umbrella/Alabama rigs.

More important than line color is line size, especially in clear water and for certain fish.  For example, crappie are very adept at seeing line, so most crappie fishermen use 6, 4, or even 2 lb. test line.  I have 12 lb. Suffix mono on most of my reels, but if I’m fishing in ultra-clear water or for crappie I’ll switch to 6 lb. Suffix mono.  Trilene also makes good mono.  I’m not a fan of Stren.

What’s the best weapon light to get for hunting at night?

Several years ago there weren’t many choices for weapons-mountable lights that were made for hunting.  Elusive Wildlife came out with their Kill Light XLR 250 and several FCS members, including me, thought that it would never be beaten.  With 340 lumens, it could see up to 250 yards away (depending on the moonlight/starlight), was tough/shockproof and waterproof, and included a scope/barrel mount, remote switch, and rechargeable battery.  You could get it with a green, red, or white lens.  It now includes a blue lens option, more weapon mounts, and three adjustments (hi, medium, and low) for $150 (you can get an “essentials” version without the pressure switch and with only one mount for $120).  There is now an adjustable lens XLR 250 HD for $200 and 500-yard ($230) and 750-yard ($270) versions.  But it has two shortcomings – the beam cannot be focused and if you want to switch from a green lens to a different colored one you have to buy and install another lens.  As there are now options that address those shortcomings, it is no longer my first choice.

The best light right now is the Odepro KL52Plus Zoomable Hunting Flashlight.  It includes red, green, white, and IR850 infrared (invisible to the eye – must be used with night vision) lenses and adjustable focus.  It’s shockproof and has a rechargeable battery.  It’s water-resistant and has a Smart Remote Switch with a button that makes no noise.  It shines out to 417 yards.  It includes two weapons mounts.  Best of all they’re $113 ($7 cheaper than my former favorite – the Elusive Wildlife Kill Light XLR 250), which as the name implies will shine out to 250 yards!  Use the green light for hogs.  You can get the Nitecore P30 1000 Lumens 676 Yards light for $32 more than the Odepro.  The Orion M30C also shines to 700 yards but you have to choose between green or red lenses (and I haven’t been able to find anyone who sells spare lenses), it’s $25 more than the Nitecore P30, and weighs two ounces more.

What’s the best source for a case of 9mm ammo and a bucket or large quantity of .22 LR during the present (Covid) ammo shortage?

For hard-to-find ammo, I’ve been partial to gunbroker (www.gunbroker.com) and ammoseek (https://ammoseek.com/), which searches all ammo seller sites for what you’re looking for.

However, if you don’t want to wait for it to be mailed to you, I’d try Academy.  They had several cases of dove loads and boxes of .22 LR the other day (325 shells per box).  I didn’t look for 9mm.

I have absolutely no clue about night vision scopes, so what do you think?  I know I don’t have $500 to invest in on.  Is it worth it to buy one of the less expensive night vision scopes or is it just a waste of money?

I don’t have much experience with them either but know that you’ll see a lot better with a generation 3 than you will with a 2 or especially a 1.  But that means big bucks.

Here’s an article titled Best Night Vision Scope – Top 10 Best Rated Night Vision Scopes Reviews.  Regarding digital scopes, it states, “Digital night vision technology converts ambient light into a digital image that is viewed on a screen. The image quality of most digital night vision scopes can be compared to Gen 2 traditional night vision technology.  Some digital night vision scopes can be used in daylight.  They may also have features that allow the shooter to record, zoom, and change reticles. These versatile devices also tend to be more affordable than Gen 2 or Gen 3 devices.”

#2 on their list is the Firefield NVRS 3X42 Gen 1 Night Vision Riflescope.  It’s Gen 1, but they described it as “the perfect entry-level night vision optic for hog hunting, coyote hunting, or any other nighttime shooting endeavor.”  It’s designed for AR platforms.  However, as it’s Gen 1 you’ll see a lot of black grainy dots and it’s only good for about 75 yards.  I’d spend more and get the ATN X-sight 4K Pro 3-14X Smart Ultra HD Day & Night Vision rifle scope.  Regarding it, they stated, “We consider the X-Sight riflescope from ATN to be one of the best day/night optics on the market.”  A friend of mine bought one and let me look through it at night – it’s amazing!

Another article titled Best Night Vision Scope by Budget Category (We Review the Top Night Vision Scope Under $2000, $1000 & $500) rated the Sightmark Wraith HD 4-32×50 Digital Riflescope as the best digital scope.

I have a buddy at work looking for a good deal on an over/under for his son.  He wants to take his son dove hunting this season, but he wants to buy it now so he has time to practice a bit before the opener.  I was wondering if we had anything up for sale in the group, or if you knew of any stores that might have something going on or coming up?

We presently don’t have any O/U for sale on the FCS Guns and Accessories page – just a Browning Maxus semiauto.  I may be adding my Winchester SX4 semiauto in a month or so.

Depending on his son’s size, I highly recommend a semiauto over an O/U for five reasons:

1. Piston operated semiautos kick substantially less.  Park of the gas going down the barrel goes down two holes in the magazine tube, which pushes a new shell out and operates the bolt to eject the spent hull and chamber a new round.  The result is a longer recoil action which feels more like a gentle push than a sharp jolt.  This is especially true for heavier duck and goose loads.
2. O/U’s are not as safe for hunting (they’re designed for clay target shooting).  The breach has to be opened, even if only one round has been fired.  This results in a partly loaded gun possibly being aimed towards others.  In other words, I only recommend that hunters experienced with O/U’s use them for hunting.
3. He will probably appreciate the third shell that a semiauto or pump offers.  Many times I’ve missed a dove, for example, on my first two shots and then nailed it on the third.
4. O/Us are usually very pretty guns – often with fancy wood and scrollwork.  It would be a shame to have such a pretty gun beat up in a duck blind or scratched up hunting dove in mesquites.
5. O/Us cost twice as much for chokes as you have to buy two improved cylinder, two modified, etc., if the gun doesn’t come with them.

O/Us are better balanced, shorter (which is an advantage for shorter folks), and have the advantage of having one choke in one barrel and another choke in the other barrel.  For example, many are set up to shoot the first shot with an improved cylinder choke, and then the follow-up shot will be with a modified choke (when the bird is now further away).  However, most hunters, especially, keep the same chokes in both barrels.

Around 8/1 – 8/15 just about every sporting goods store will start to run shotguns on sale for dove season, but most will be semiautos and pumps.  I also highly recommend Texas Gun Trader.  I’ve sold 10 guns on that website in the last 15 months, without a hitch.

Feel free to have him call or email me.

Where do you recommend that I go for a weekend semi-guided hog hunt?

The two places that I recommend (with some reservations) are:

Independence Ranch

They’re a large-scale operation.  They hunt hogs there 365 days a year on 300 acres.  The hogs don’t get shot out because they import them (buy them from trappers).  Some hunting is done in the evenings from stands until 9:30 PM (bring two sacks of corn), but most of the hunting is done via small group stalks (of no more than five hunters with everyone wearing blaze orange).  They have an air-conditioned bunkhouse and good meals in their lodge.  There are a lot of exotics that can be hunted, but of course, you’ll pay a lot for them.

Probably their best deal for two guys is their buy one get one free special ($399).  This includes lodging and all meals.  It does not include tips.  They strongly recommend a $50 tip per hunter.  It also does not include the cost of cleaning the hogs, which is basically $50 for a hog up to 50 lbs. and $1/lb. above that (so a 150 lb. pig is $150).  They do not allow you to clean your own pigs because the “TPWD recommends only experts clean them” (which is true, but is really an excuse for them to make more money).

FCS got a considerable discount by doing their “ministry hunts.”  I had to round up at least 12 hunters in order to do it and we could only hunt on Sundays – Tuesdays or Mondays – Wednesdays.  At first, it wasn’t hard to get that many hunters, but over time as their prices on cleaning hogs kept going up less of our guys were interested.  The last time that I tried to organize a hunt there he only got six commitments and that was a year after our best hunt there.

Pros – Lots of pigs.  On our best hunt, 15 hunters killed 25 pigs.  It’s not a guaranteed kill, but it’s about as close to it as you can get.  Decent bunkhouses and showers.  Good meals.

Cons – You don’t get to hunt at night for long.  If you bring slop there is a small chance that they’ll actually put you at the stand where they put your slop out.  My advice is to leave it in your truck and put it out when you drive to your stand.  If you shoot a really big pig you will have to take out a small business loan.  They do not allow calibers smaller than .243/6mm, nor do they allow buckshot and more than three shells in your chamber and magazine.  (They don’t want a guy with an AR to shoot 10 hogs and then discover that he can’t pay for them all.)

Chambers Bow Hunting and https://www.visituvaldecounty.com/business/chambers-bow-hunts.

If they don’t want to go bow hunting then stop reading – it’s bow hunting only.

Our second FCS hog hunt was there.  Four hunters went.  One pig was killed and I missed a running shot at a medium-sized hog.  This hunt was more than 20 years ago, so he’s hesitant to give more details as they could have significantly changed.  He remembers a bunkhouse.  He thinks that the hunt costs $150 for the weekend, but he’s sure it’s significantly more now.  They had to cook their own meals.  The hunters saw a lot of hogs, but the hogs were very reluctant to come to the corn that they hunters had put out within their bow range.  The ranch and owner have a good reputation.  The only reason that we didn’t do another hunt there is because we have few bow hunters.  I started looking for ranches that also allowed guns.  From a participation standpoint, he’d rather have 15 gun hunters than four hunters at a bow-only ranch.

Where can I go for a walk-in self-guided duck hunt?

All the below walk-in hunts are 1/2 – 1 mile so travel light (gun, a couple of boxes of shells, calls, a stool or bucket, and a strand of decoys).  Hopefully, you’ll be carrying back dead ducks on the way back, so your return trip will be harder.  I once went with a friend on Granger where we each carried the above plus a Mojo each and an extra strand of decoys.  We were worn out when we were done.

For all of these hunts, it’s a good idea to go to the DU migration map to see how hunters have been fairing at a particular lake.  But realize that some hunters are deliberately deceitful.  For example, Granger might be their pet lake and they’ll make a post saying that all that they’re seeing on Granger is cormorants (when they’re really doing well), just to keep other hunters away.  So, it usually takes more than one report to sway me.

Your best bet for a walk-in hunt is probably Lake Stillhouse Hollow, near Salado.  I’ve walked in at the end of Union Grove Rd. in the Union Grove WMA (it’s the only road in the WMA).  When you get to the water either go left (preferably) or right.  Look for other hunter’s headlamps and set up at least 200 yards from them.  Stillhouse’s water level can vary considerably (as with all these lakes).  See http://www.lakelevels.info/USA/Texas/.  So, the cover that is normally at the shore’s edge might be inland or underwater.  A good thing about Stillhouse is it does not require the TPWD Public Hunting Permit, nor does it require a US Army Corps of Engineers (CoE) permit.

Lake Somerville, near Somerville, has a CoE Day Hunt Area that does not require a TPWD Public Hunting Permit, nor does it require a CoE permit.   It is the bottom of a cup-shaped area on the opposite side of the lake from Birch Creek Park.  Most guys set up to the left side of the cup.  I recommend that you park at the end of Fisher Rd.  There is a good trail, but there are lots of vines and stuff to trip on.  Don’t park at the end of Iron Bridge Rd. and go to the right.  It’s a very tough walk and I poked about 10 holes in my waders the only time that I did it.

For Lake Granger, near Granger, I’ve walked in at #2 before.  It’s across from the Doppler Radar station.  It’s a fairly easy walk, going slightly downhill until you get close to the water.  Then it gets thick with trees and bushes.  Going back is tougher as it’s slightly uphill.  We’ve gone straight down to the cove below #2.  We’ve also gone to the cove on the right, which is a shorter walk.  We’ve also walked in at #6 straight down to the cove/San Gabriel River.  The bad news is I haven’t seen any good reports this season for Granger on the DU migration map.  Granger does not require a CoE lake hunting permit.  However, the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department (TPWD) leases Granger’s WMA’s; consequently, a TPWD Public Hunting Permit is required.  The cost is $48/year.

I’ve walked in before at Owl Creek WMA on Lake Belton, near Temple, and do not recommend it.  It was a very tough walk through a lot of trees, bushes, and vines that love to trip you in the dark.  I’ve also walked in at White Flint WMA.  It was a long walk as well, but not nearly as tough as Owl Creek.  A problem with Belton is the shoreline can have very sticky mud.  I’ve sunk down to my knees before.  Fortunately, I had a young, much lighter, man with me or I would have never made it 30 yards out in the water to put out the decoys.  The good thing about Belton is it does not require the TPWD Public Hunting Permit, nor does it require a CoE permit.

If you get night vision goggles do you also have to get a night vision scope?

No, it’s not required; however, it’s preferred.  I own a first-generation (the cheapest) Night Owl monocular.  I can clearly distinguish game at up to 50 yards.  I can tell that there’s something under a feeder at 100 yards but can’t tell if it’s a small hog or a raccoon.  However, I’ll still have to use a constant on light (I prefer a red light) or a spotlight with a red or green lens in order to see the animal with my riflescope.

For a constant on light, I use one made by texasboars.com that is similar to the Kill Light Feeder Light (they no longer make the one that I use).  For a spotlight, I use a Kill Light 250.  You can get a mount for it and attach it to your gun and a wired tactical switch.  I don’t have mine mounted to my gun as when I turn it on the hogs will run (unless you have the rifle pointed up at a 45-degree angle (at least) and then slowly bring the light down onto the hog (mimicking moonlight coming in through the clouds).  This is not easy to do and when using this method you might not have time to get a hog in your reticles, which is why I prefer the constant-on light.  Contrary to popular opinion a constant-on light will not scare hogs.

Is there a preferred camo pattern for duck/deer/hog hunting in Texas?

It all depends on where you are hunting.  I prefer Real Tree Max-4 or Mossy Oak Break Up as they fit in a variety of terrains, with the exception of South Texas, where Brush Country is king.  The general rule is to go with more greenish camo early in the season, when there are more green leaves on the trees and a more brownish camo later in the season when the leaves have fallen off the trees.

Deer are red-green color blind like some humans.  Their color vision is limited to the short [blue] and middle [green] wavelength colors.  As a result, deer likely can distinguish blue from red, but not green from red, or orange from red.  So deer hunters up north, who are forced to wear hunter orange, appear to be green to deer.  Pigs can differentiate colors, but not as well as humans.

Waterfowl don’t see color the way we do.  They see reds, greens, yellows, and blues more vibrantly – thanks to their retinas – plus an extra set of cones allows them to see ultraviolet radiation.  This gives them exceptional light sensitivity.  As a result, shine and glare are the waterfowl hunter’s enemy.  For ducks, a lot of guys prefer Real Tree Max-5, as it has canes in it, which are often located on shorelines.  However, they aren’t on the shorelines where I hunt usually, so I get by with my one-camo-fits-all Real Tree Max-4 or Mossy Oak Break Up.

You can see the different styles in the below picture. Four of the guys are wearing Max-5.  I think that I’m wearing Mossy Oak Break Up, as is Earl immediately to the right of the ducks.  I’m just happy to find camo on sale that fits me.  I don’t pay much attention to the pattern.  You’ll often see me wearing a different pattern top than bottom for this reason.  Some guys, on the other hand, want everything to match.  But I kill deer, hogs, and ducks just as dead as they do – I just don’t look as coordinated.

What binoculars do you recommend for deer?

FCS doesn’t have an article that specifically addresses binoculars, but if you Google “Best Binoculars for deer hunting” I’m sure that several articles will pop up.  The important things to keep in mind are they should be waterproof/fog proof (if they fog up they’re of no use to you), weight (think light), and magnification/objective lens (8 X 42 or 10 X 42).  I own Vortex Sidewinders and Nikon Prostaff.  I got the former used on eBay for $80 and the later new on eBay for $90.  They both come with a lifetime transferable warranty.  They are both 10 X 42.  Go to a place that sells them like Academy.  Try out several pairs.  Read some distant signs in the store with them.  See which ones enable you to read the sign the best and are the clearest.  You certainly can spend a lot more money than I did, but I don’t see a compelling reason to.

What clothing do you recommend for both deer and hog hunting, particularly since we’re in Texas and I’m not sure cold-weather gear will be as needed.  I want to purchase enough to get started.

Also if you have any recommendations regarding clothing that could serve both for bird (e.g., dove, duck) hunting and hunting big game.

No, we don’t have a specific checklist for clothing.  However, we have a generic Trip Check List.  The weather in Texas can vary wildly, often on the same day.  And it can get quite cold (as I recall the coldest duck hunt that I went on it was 14 degrees air temp, and we were standing in the water).  The key is to dress in layers.  In that way, if you get too hot you can always take a layer off.

Depending on how cold it is, wind, rain, etc.  I might start with a base layer of medium weight thermal underwear.  Then a layer of fleece (sometimes two layers for my upper half), then bibs, and a heavy coat.

I usually buy hunting clothes at the end of or after deer season when Academy drops the price 30%.  I have a lot of their Game Winner brand.  They keep me warm enough.  I could spend a lot more (my son has a $200 coat for duck hunting), but if I’m going to spend $200 I’d rather buy a gun.  I’ve not been cold deer hunting since 1987 when I owned cheap boots.

The three biggies are your head, hands, and feet.  If they get cold you’re done.  You’ll at least get fidgety and have a terrible experience.  As with jackets, I have a variety of gloves, caps, face masks, boots, and socks.

Rubber boots are the best for deer and hog hunting, as they leave no scent.  I own Muck Edgewater’s (insulated ones).

I like gloves that are fingerless, with mittens that cover the fingers if they get cold.  If it’s too cold for that I’ll wear ones where the trigger finger is thinner so I can feel the trigger well.

I like to have facemasks with holes for my nostrils and mouth.

Wool socks are good, but they can make you sweat.  I like a liner sock (base layer)to ward off sweat.  I particularly like liner and wool sock combos (in one), such as the Cabela’s Ingenius socks, but they’re discontinued and hard to find.  I also like Randy Sun waterproof ski socks.  They keep me warm and dry quickly if they get wet.  I do not recommend Worn (formerly called Wetsox), as they make my feet sweat.  It does no good if they’re waterproof on the outside if your feet get wet from sweat.

Cold weather hog hunting requires the same clothing as deer.  Warm weather requires a lot thinner camo.  I’ll often wear my dove hunting wear while warm weather deer or hog hunting.

Scent-free hunting clothing is an unnecessary option in my opinion.  It’s a lot more expensive.  Instead, I’ll buy Scent Away spray and spray myself liberally right before I head to the stand.

Dove hunting is done in 90 – 100+ degree weather – think lightweight, thin, and comfortable.  Camo is fine, but so is khaki.

Duck and deer require basically the same clothes, with the exception of waders for duck hunting.  I own three pairs of waders.  One is for warm days (breathable), another is for cool days (3mm neoprene), and the new ones are for cold days (5mm neoprene).  If you’re only getting one pair get them stout in the chest so you can wear a heavy coat under them and 3mm or 3.5mm neoprene.  Buy the boots the size of your shoes.  Again, Christmas or after Christmas sales at Academy are the way to go.  Also, fleece pants with stirrups are nice for ducks as they keep the pants from riding up.

I see deals all the time on Facebook Marketplace.  I’ve bought several things there.  All have been good purchases.  I haven’t bought any clothes there, but I don’t need any (and in fact have way too much).

A very close friend recently passed away and gave me his 7mm mag with 20x scope.  With the addition of that gun, I don’t really need my .270, so I want to give to my son.  I also have an old .22 that was my dad’s and I want to give it to my sister in Florida.  Any issues with gifting these rifles?

No, there are no issues presently with gifting guns.  However, if many Democrats get their way and close what they call the “gun show loophole” you would have to transfer them via a licensed firearms dealer, which would require the recipient to complete the ATF Form that gun buyers complete when we buy a gun at a dealer.  At least the recipient would have to pay the dealer a transfer fee.  It would be another layer of unneeded bureaucracy that would protect no one.
Their theory that criminals would no longer be able to buy guns at gun shows is bogus, as criminals don’t buy guns – they steal them.  (I realize that’s shocking.)

I’ve got an old shotgun that may be worth something.  Do you know of any place that deals in antique firearms?

Places that you might try include the Cabela’s Gun Library, McBride’s, and Blackjack Guns.  You also might see if one is selling on www.gunbroker.com or www.gunsamerica.com.

What is the best AR in your opinion?

Daniel Defense and Bushmaster have great reputations.  It all depends on how much you want to spend.  Does a hunter in Texas need a match-grade barrel?

I’m kicking around the idea of getting an auto-loader shotgun.  Is there a particular time of year the stores put them on sale that you know of?  I’m trying to figure out if I need to try and figure out which one is a good fit for me sooner than later.  Any ideas?

Typically stores will run sales about two weeks before dove season starts and about two – four weeks before Christmas.  However, you can find deals year-round at places like https://texasguntrader.com,  www.gunbroker.com, and www.gunsamerica.com.

When you go on the FCS clay target shoot at Capital Clays ask guys if you can shoot their guns.  It will give you a good feel for the different brands and features.  I’ll be happy to let you shoot my Browning Maxus or Browning Gold (whichever I decide to bring), if I’m there.  They are excellent guns.

Here is an article that I wrote on the subject – Choosing a Shotgun for Birds and Clays.  Your biggest decision will be whether to go with a piston operated gun or a recoil-operated gun.

The former has the advantage that some of the expelled gases are forced into the magazine and operate the piston, through two holes in the barrel.  This causes the recoil to be more spread out and results in a softer felt kick.  Their disadvantage is the piston needs regular (around every 100 shells or so) cleaning or the piston can get fowled and fail to eject a shell or chamber a new one.

A recoil-operated gun has no piston so it kicks like a pump or double-barrel gun.  They also have the advantage that they don’t have to be cleaned nearly as often.  Their disadvantage is you will feel more recoil with heavy dove loads and heavier.  I haven’t updated the article in over 11 years, so be aware that there are newer models available.

I just purchased some property in South Texas and have been setting up feeders and never used Moultrie, but we have been having issues with them such as some get water in the units and timers fry, spinner does not work well, etc.  Do you have a recommendation on the brand to use?  What do you use?

I’ve always used Moultrie.  Here is an article on The 9 Best Deer Feeders.

How do I get an inexpensive gun appraisal in a short amount of time?

I’d go to www.gunbroker.com, www.gunsamerica.com, budsguns, etc. and see what they’re selling for.  Look at several “buy it now” prices.

If you need something more official I’d go to Blackjack Guns or McBride’s.  Blackjack charges $20 to appraise guns.

Do you know anyone who does gun bluing?

I had McBride’s do a barrel once.  They sent it out to someone.  I didn’t last more than three duck hunts on the coast.  FCS guest Jim Irwin, Paul Irwin’s dad, owns Irwin Restorations LLC.  He is a fully licensed gunsmith located conveniently next door to Shady Oaks Gun Range at 3100 Woodall Dr., Cedar Park.  His phone number is 512-294-6331 and his email address is jimirwin@austin.rr.com.  Also, you might try Blackjack Gunsmithing at 13043 Pond Springs Rd., Austin.  Their phone number is 512-450-3535 and their email address is blackjackguns@gmail.com. I don’t know if either does blueing, but I’ll bet that they do.

Do you know of anyone I can call and ask questions about a silencer?

Call the Silencer Shop at 512-843-0017.

Looking to buy three game cameras for our ranch in NE Texas.  Do you have a favorite?  Preference?  What should I look for in making a decision?

I own a game camera, but I bought it because it was 50% off at Academy, so I really can’t answer your questions other than to say that having a screen on the camera where you can view your pictures is a really nice feature (rather than having to take the SD card out and put it in another device to view the pictures).  Here is an article on the 5 Best Trail Cameras for 2017.

I’ve been intrigued by military history for a long time, and I’ve been pondering buying an M1 Garland for a while.  I don’t want to pay $1300 on GunsAmerica and don’t qualify for the $830 CMP deal.  Do you have any contacts or suggestions? 

I’ve had good luck with www.gunbroker.com.  I’ve bought six guns and sold three there.  They have where you can bid and buy it now prices.  Your gun has to be shipped to an FFL dealer.  You do the paperwork with him. There will be a transfer fee.  I use my son, Ryan, in Liberty Hill.  He only charges $20 to receive a gun.  He is a lot cheaper than the Austin boys.  McBride’s also has good prices on used guns.

Could you send me the process of how you do European mounts?

I wrote an article on the subject called Skull Mounting Basics.  Be forewarned – it’s a stinky job.

I saw your FB post with your boomstick for sale and the follow-up about not including prices.  Is there any other place, besides our FB, to list boomsticks that we no longer need?

I’ve had great success selling three guns on the FCS website.  Two sold in one day.  The last one took a week.  The three keys are:

1. Sell something popular/not obscure.  For example, if you try to sell a 28 gauge shotgun you probably won’t get any interest because the shells are very hard to find and they’re expensive.
2. A picture is worth a thousand words – the more pictures the better.
3. Provide lots of information.  For example, if your shotgun is back bored list that fact and state how that is beneficial (i.e., back bored to provide tighter, more uniform patterns).  If your shotgun has six chokes list that and what they are (maker, constriction, and whether they’re extended).  If your gun has extras list those (e.g., sling, extra magazine, ammo, fiber optics sights, etc.).  Other important things to include are barrel length (especially true for shotguns), any blemishes on the gun/condition, and any special features (e.g., my Browning Gold Hunter had a speed load feature that loads the gun when the breach is open by stuffing a shell in the magazine – very helpful when you’re wanting to get off a quick fourth shot while dove or duck hunting).

I’ve sold nine guns on www.texasguntrader.com.  There is no charge, but you can make a donation if you wish.

Travis County Anglers (a deliberately misleading name) allows guns to be listed.  Usually, folks just say, “PM me if you would like to discuss.”  Don’t put, “Gun for sale” or similar.  Also, don’t list the asking price.  If you do either of those things FB will suspend you.

I sold three guns on www.gunbroker.com.  Working with gunbroker is easy.  You just have to set up an account.  Bidding is similar to eBay, with a 15 minute “last call” rule.  You have to receive your gun via an FFL dealer.  I use my son, Ryan, in Liberty Hill.  He only charges $20 to receive a gun.  He is a lot cheaper than the Austin boys.

I’m happy to put your guns on the FCS Guns and Accessories web page – just let me know.

What are 2 – 3 of the best crossbows for your money?  Can you hunt crossbow in the archery season?  Where are some places that will let you test crossbows?

Barnett, Excalibur, and Horton are well known.  Tenpoint is very good but a lot more expensive.  I have a Barnett Jackal.  It cost about $215.  The only thing that I don’t like about it is it’s heavier than a lot of crossbows.  Barnet is the best bang for your buck.

Yes, the Texas Legislature passed a law several years ago that made it legal for anyone to hunt with a crossbow during archery season (or gun season), not just people with upper extremity weakness.

I’m not sure if Archery Country will let you shoot crossbows.  I advise that you call them at 512-452-1222 before you head there.

Have you ever noticed a difference in shooting a 12 gauge compared to a 20 gauge?  I have noticed my shooting is not as good with the 20 as with the 12.

20 gauge loads have, on average, 12 1/2% (1/8 ounce) less shot than a 12 gauge.  A 12 gauge game/target load is 1 ounce and it’s 7/8 ounce for a 20 gauge.  Also, because a 20 gauge has a longer shell to width makeup, it has a longer shot string (it takes the shot at the end of the shell more time to reach the target than the shot at the front of the shell).  This can result in more “holes” in the pattern and missed shots.  You could be spot on but a bird could make it through your pattern easier with a 20 gauge.

Any recommendations on local Taxidermist? 

See our Service Reviews and Recommendations web page (the categories are in alphabetical order).  I recommend Top Gun Taxidermy in Davilla (11 miles east of Bartlett), off CR 403 on the north side of Davilla (look for the Top Gun Taxidermy signs).The taxidermist’s name is Lee Lackey.  He did a canvasback and a hooded merganser for me.

If that’s too far for you to drive, then my second choice is Professional Taxidermy Studio in Cedar Park on FM 1431.  The taxidermist’s name is Dan Lansford.  He did a Catalina goat and a speckled belly goose for me several years ago that have held up well.  The reason that he’s not my first choice is he’s more expensive than Top Gun Taxidermy and takes a lot longer.

Do you have a gunsmith that you use?  What is your opinion of his work?  Currently, I use Hank Fleming on South Congress.  I think he is good but he seems to take a while for repairs to be completed.

Hank does indeed have a good reputation, but he does take longer than most.

I use Blackjack Guns on Pond Springs Rd.  Their phone number is 512-450-3535.

I just noticed some surface rusts (toothpick size freckles) on the blued barrel of my Remington Wingmaster – my fault completely for leaving it in storage for too long and probably did not clean it well enough the last time I used it.  A quick Google suggests I should use 00/000 steel wool to wipe them and re-blue the barrel with Birchwood Casey’s Cold Blue.  Does this sound right to you?  Would you do it any differently?

I would take some gentle solvent and the finest steel wool that you can find to clean your barrel.  Scrub it very lightly.

Re-bluing is a time consuming and difficult endeavor.  I’ve never tried it, but it’s an all or nothing proposition (you can’t do just “spots”).  The one time that I needed a barrel to be reblued was because there was dime to quarter-sized splotches on the barrel after a coastal duck hunt.  I had McBride’s do it.  It cost $115 or so.

With toothpick sized spots a future buyer will hardly notice/care.  So, if it were me I’d leave it alone if you can’t clean it off.

I’m looking for a decent lever-action rifle in a caliber that I can find ammo for.  One of the most popular is the 30-30 and I’d be ok with it but was more looking for something in the .38/.357.  I had a Rossi 38/357 that I sold a few years ago and I really miss it.  To me, the gem would be a model 94 with something other than a .30-30.

For traditional lever guns, you might consider the Marlin 1895 (comes in .45/70 Government) and the Marlin 336C (comes in .35 Remington and .30-30).  The other two calibers have considerably more oomph than the .30-30, but they’re harder to find ammo for.  (I’d find a source of ammo before I bought one.)

For non-traditional lever guns, consider the Browning BLR.  It uses a box magazine, so it is not limited to flat-nosed cartridges.  It comes in popular cartridges such as .30-06. .308, .270. and .243.

I need advice on 9mm ammo.  I may do some target.  But also would like to keep some hollow points on hand should the need ever arise.  Not planning to carry.  I have a WWII German 9mm that I got checked out and it is good-to-go.  I‘m thinking run-of-the-mill, but brass, not steel.

For practice ammo, I’m partial to Winchester White Box and Remington UMC.

For hollow points, I’m partial to Remington Ultimate Defense, Winchester PDX1, Speer Gold Dot, Speer Lawman, Hornady Critical Defense, and Federal Hydra Shock.

There is a gun show this weekend and I would like to pick up a shotgun that would be good for the clay shoots and bird shoots the club hosts.  But I have no idea what to get and could use some advice.   It needs to be a gun both I and my 12 year old son can use.  And not too expensive.

I wrote an article on the subject titled Choosing a Shotgun for Birds and Clays.  I last revised it in 2007, so all of the manufacturers have added new guns or revised existing ones.  For example, Browning now offers the Maxus, which is an upgraded Gold.

As your son is not a full-grown man yet it will probably be difficult for him to shoot a regular sized 12 gauge (unless he’s bigger than normal, a boy really can’t handle a 12 gauge until around age 15).

The problem with youth models is after two or three years they’re worthless (as boys outgrow them) and then you’ll be stuck with a gun that few people are in the market for.  Also, it will be hard for you to shoot a youth model as it has a shorter stock.

Consider a Remington 1187 LW (lightweight) or 1100 LW (they only come in 20 gauge).  The barrel is normal length (26 or 28 inches) but the gun is lighter because of an alloy receiver and mahogany or composite stock.  The Premier is much better (steel, fit, etc.) than the Sportsman.  You can get a used one for around $450.

CZ 712’s are lighter than average 12 gauges if you can find one, due to an alloy receiver.

I don’t recommend Benelli’s, Franchi’s, or Stoeger’s for boys (inertia/recoil) operated as they kick more than gas/piston operated guns.  The exception is the Franchi 720, which is gas/piston operated.

The Beretta A300 Outlander, Browning Maxus, Gold, and Silver, and Winchester Super X4 and Super X3 are fine guns but are probably out of your price range.

I recommend McBride’s Guns for used guns.  Although you’re going to have a harder time finding a used 20 gauge.

You might have to settle for seeing how new 20 gauges fit him at McBride’s and then finding a used one on www.texasguntrader.com or  www.gunbroker.com.  I have sold nine guns on Texas Gun Trader and have bought six guns and sold three on Gunbroker without a problem.  If you buy a gun online, it must be received a Federal Firearms Licensed (FFL) dealer.  I use my son, Ryan, Leander.  He only charges $20 to receive a gun.  He is a lot cheaper than the Austin boys.

A standard game/target load in 20 gauge with 7/8 ounce shot only has 1/8 ounce shot (12.5%) less than a standard 12 gauge game/target load with 1 ounce shot.  That translates to 50 less #8 shot (350 instead of 400).  So with game/target loads, you’re not losing that much firepower with a 20 gauge.  However, it cannot keep up with the 12 gauge with the magnum loads for ducks/geese/turkey/deer/hogs.