Apr

Bass Essential Gear Basics by Randy Rowley 4/22/26 ©

Fortunately, the ranks of fishermen swell with more and more novices each year. Unfortunately, they are often at a loss when they venture to their local Fishermen’s Emporiums to purchase tackle for bass fishing. Consequently, they often fall prey to flashy advertisements and smooth-talking salesmen. Therefore, I will address how to get started in the wonderful world of essential gear shopping.

The heart of a fisherman’s equipment is his rod and reel. As they are the most expensive of the basic investments that a fisherman must make, they should be chosen with care. Here, as with lures, the choices are mind boggling. These can be whittled down, however, by the fisherman deciding how he likes to fish. For example, a man who wants to chunk crankbaits all day will need different tackle than one who wants to bounce plastic worms off the bottom or throw topwaters.

The most successful fishermen are versatile fishermen. For beginning fishermen, it’s unwise to specialize too much. I recommend a rod/reel combo that allows the fisherman to do a lot of things. The most versatile rod will have a medium or medium heavy action, a moderate to fast tip, and be around seven feet in length. Fiberglass rods are strong and usually inexpensive but they often lack sensitivity and can break under stress. Graphite rods are very strong and sensitive but cost more than fiberglass. Rods designed to be cast with two hands are usually better than ones designed to be cast one-handed, especially if a lot of casting is anticipated. Two-handed rods cut down on fatigue and also cast farther, although some people (like me) have a hard time throwing with two hands. As to type of rod, casting or spinning, that factor is determined by the type of reel that you prefer.

There are three basis types of reels: baitcasting, spinning, and spincasting.

I’m a big fan of baitcasters, which is why I own 19 baitcaster combos. I’ve used them so long that I usually don’t have problems with them. However, for people who haven’t used them or haven’t used them much they can be daunting. For newbies, they backlash/birdsnest/snarl easily, especially when throwing into the wind or when switching to a lure of a different weight. Most have a centrifugal brake and a magnetic brake to help them not backlash, and a lot of people also use their thumbs to slow the spool down or stop it. For bass fishing, baitcasters are king. You’ll rarely if ever see a spinning reel in a bass tournament, and you’ll never see a spincast reel.

When they’re set correctly they offer the advantages of:

strength, which gives better control of large fish in dense cover (they’re stronger than equivalent spinning reels; for most fish you won’t notice it but if you hook a large fish a stronger reel can make the difference is landing the fish vs. talking about the one that got away).
superior casting accuracy (allowing fishermen to place lures precisely; their design allows for greater casting distance, less line twist, making them ideal for fishing with heavier lures and high-torque techniques).
sensitivity (their design feeds line straight down the rod, which enables fishermen to feel a lure working and a fish fighting better).
One-handed casting (although some fishermen prefer casting with two hands).

Spinning reels also have advantages, including:

They can use lighter lures (if you’re going after white bass or crappie with Roadrunners or crappie jigs, many baitcasters will struggle throwing such light lures, but spinning reels don’t have that problem).
They don’t backlash in high winds like baitcasters are prone to do.
They throw lures further than most baitcasters.
Some fishermen can throw lures more accurately with a spinning reel.

Spinning reel combos are more often seen while bay fishing (for redfish, speckled trout, black drum, flounder, etc.), probably because it’s often windy at the coast.

On the con side they tend to coil the line, especially if it was not spooled on the reel correctly.

Entry-level spincast reels, which are basically spinning reels with covers that are secured on the top of the reel instead of the bottom (with the exception of underspins), offer the advantages of low cost and fool proof casting. All one needs to do is push and hold the spool release button with your thumb and release it as you throw. Disadvantages include short life span due to poorer quality for most reels and they sometimes will coil the line, like spinning reels. Many kids start fishing with spincast reels. Typically, casting rods that are paired with spincast reels are 6′ long or less (so kids can cast them easier).

Spinning and baitcasting rods are generally one-piece rods (although spinning rods are sometimes 2-piece) and usually longer and better quality than 2-piece casting rods designed for spincast reels. Spinning and baitcasting reels don’t generally come pre-spooled with fishing line, although spincast reels often are. Jack-of-all-Trades rods will have medium heavy or medium power and a very fast or fast tip (the faster the tip the easiest it is to set the hook).

A beginner would serve himself well by starting with a decent spincast rod and reel combo (the reel should include ball bearings, a large line capacity and be made out of tough material such as steel) and then eventually work his way up to spinning or baitcasting combos.

Affordable spincast manufacturers include Abu Garcia, Daiwa, KastKing, Pflueger, and Zebco. Decent casting rod/spincast reel combos start at $60.00, but you’d do much better if you spend $70 – $81 more.

Five highly regarded spincast combos (under $150):

Affordable spinning manufacturers include the same as the spincast ones with the additions of 13 Fishing, Lew’s, Okuma, Piscifun, Quantum, and Shimano. Most bass fishermen buy size 2500, 3000, 3500, or 4000 reels. Decent spinning rod/reel combos start at $99, but you’d do much better if you spend $50 – $100 more.

Ten highly regarded spinning combos ($200 and under):

Affordable baitcaster manufacturers include the same as the spinning ones. Decent baitcasting rod/reel combos start at $100, but you’d do much better if you spend $50 – $100 more.

Ten highly regarded baitcaster combos ($200 and under):

Now that you’re chosen a rod and reel the final step to compete your set up is to decide which line to spool it with.

There are three main types of fishing line – monofilament (aka mono), fluorocarbon (aka fluoro), and braid or braided.

Mono is the most popular of the three and has been around the longest. It’s made of a single thread of nylon. It’s the easiest to tie good knots, has good flexibility and tensile strength, and is the cheapest line available. It’s also renowned for a line that stretches. This gives the fisherman time to set the hook right after the fish slams the lure, without breaking the line or rod or pulling the lure from the fish’s mouth. Think of it as a shock absorber. Mono also sinks slowly, so it’s good for most topwater lures.

Mono comes in a variety of colors – clear is best for clear water and green is best for murky or stained water. It also comes in a variety of strengths. Most bass fishermen use 10 – 20 lb. test line. I’m partial to 10 lb. test for my spinning reels and 12 or 15 lb. test for my baitcasters. Your reel will tell you what lb. test line it was designed for, usually in a range. Don’t exceed those recommendations. For example. If you have a reel that was designed for 8 – 14 lb. test line and you put 20 lb. test line on it, it will cast poorly. You’ll be able to cast lighter line further; however, it won’t be as strong as heavier line, so often the best choice is the middle of the range. For example, if your reel is designed for 8 – 14 lb. test line, choosing 10 lb. or 12 lb. test would be a good compromise.

Copolymer mono is an improved (debatable) version of mono that’s tougher, more durable, and with less stretch than regular mono. In essence, it behaves like fluoro. I’ve never tried it, as if I want a line to behave like fluoro I’ll buy fluoro.

For years I’ve been partial to Sufix Elite, which is made by Rapala. It’s an exceptionally soft and abrasion-resistant line made with a super copolymer nylon formula. It features low memory to reduce twists and tangles, and provides smooth, long-distance casting and high knot strength. I can cast further with it than any other mono line that I’ve tried. Sufix Siege is tougher than their Elite (but less castable). Other popular brands include Berkley Trilene XL, Berkley Trilene XT, and P-Line CXX.

Fluoro is composed primarily of carbon and fluorine atoms, characterized by extremely strong and stable carbon-fluorine bonds. It’s often derived from hydrocarbons by replacing hydrogen atoms with fluorine, except it’s somewhat thicker and harder with less stretch and has a non-toxic composition. Fluoro blends in better in water and is the least visible fishing line, resulting in more strikes.

Fluoro is harder and tougher than mono and is more abrasion resistant. It stays tough longer because it doesn’t become weakened or break down by the sun’s UV rays. It also doesn’t absorb water like mono can do, making fluoro last longer. This is very advantageous when fishing around rocks and timber. Not only does fluoro break less often, but it also results in more caught fish.

Fluoro also sinks much faster than mono. This is especially helpful when fishing crankbaits. A crankbait on fluoro will dive deeper and faster than the same crankbait fished on the same pound test mono line, with the same reel and rod.

Compared to mono, fluoro hardly stretches, which makes it more sensitive. Fishermen will feel fish bite better with fluoro. This increased sensitivity comes from its lack of stretch, but the lack of elasticity means it’s less forgiving when a bass slams a lure.

Compared to mono, fluoro is considerably pricier (often costing twice as much or more). Pros and weekend fishermen who fish a lot use it religiously. But for the occasional fisherman, it’s debatable if it’s worth the extra cost.

Fluoro is primarily offered without color (clear). However, it’s made in a variety of colors for the same reasons as colored mono. Most bass fishermen use 14– 20 lb. test line. I’m partial to 12 lb. test for my spinning reels and 14 – 17 lb. test for my baitcasters.

I’m partial to Berkley Trilene, Berkley Vanish (less visible than Trilene, but stiffer), and P-Line Fluorocarbon. They’re very castable, strong/abrasion resistant, and are among the least expensive fluoro offerings. Other popular brands include Sufix Invisiline, Sufix Advance, Yo-Zuri T7 Premium, Seaguar InvizX, and Shimano Mastiff. Seaguar AbrazX is renowned for its toughness/abrasion resistance and endurance but is pricier than the others listed above. It’s also not as castable or easy to tie knots with.

Braid is very different from mono and fluoro. It’s made of woven polyethylene fibers (like Spectra or Dyneema) that create a super-strong line. It has great strength-to-diameter ratios, zero-stretch sensitivity, and no memory, making it ideal for heavy cover and long-distance casting. The diameter of braided line is smaller than mono or fluoro lines of the same breaking strength. For example 20 lb. braid has the equivalent diameter of 6 lb. mono. This enables fishermen to cast without sacrificing strength.

Braid is frequently used when fishing in heavy cover such as lily pads or grass, where fishermen need a line that won’t snag or break when the lure gets tangled or stuck. Braid has no stretch, which gives fisherman the ability to pull bass out of heavy cover. Braid is also commonly used in presentations that require the most sensitivity, like bottom-contact situations with soft plastics. As braid floats, it’s perfect for most topwater lures, with the exception of dog walkers, which have a tendency for their rear hooks to catch the line as they’re zig-zagging.

Braid comes in a variety of colors. Many, such as smoke and olive green, are more visible underwater than fluoro or mono. For this reason, many fishermen tie an 18 – 24” fluoro or mono leader between the main braided line and the lure. Most bass fishermen use 20 – 30 lb. test line, with 50 – 65 lb. test line for frogging. I’m partial to 20 lb. test for my spinning reels, 30 lb. test for my baitcasters, and 65 lb. test for my frogging rod.

The most significant disadvantage of braid is knots and tangling in the spooled line. These knots can be very difficult to get out. More than a few times I’ve had to cut/pull out all the line on a spool and respool it. Braid is also the costliest of the three lines. With its higher strength preventing the line from breaking and resulting fewer lost lures, the higher cost of braid can be justified by many fishermen. But respooling a reel because one had to cut and pull all the braid out is expensive. More than once I’ve swore to never use braid again. For now, I use it for my frog rod and my soft plastics rod, but that could change the next time that I have to cut and pull out an entire spool of line.

I’m partial to Sufix 832 (very castable, smooth/quiet, and abrasion resistant), PowerPro Spectra (strong, durable, very sensitive, and reliable), and Daiwa J-Braid Grand (smooth casting). Berkley X9 is renowned for its castability. Seaguar Smackdown is renowned for being great with spinning reels. SpiderWire Stealth is the most affordable.

Happy shopping and tight lines!

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