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For baitcasters, I prefer reels with a 7.1:1 or so gear ratio (except for deep diving crankbaits – I’ll use around a 5.2:1 gear ratio) and medium or medium heavy 7′ or longer rods.  Through years of buying and replacing inexpensive rods and reels, I no longer recommend reels under $50 and rods under $50.

For reels in the $50 – $100 range, I recommend the Abu Garcia Revo X Low-Profile (I have four Revos and love them), Lew’s Classic Pro Speed Spool SLP CP1SHC (I have a Lew’s Speed Spool and love it), KastKing Crixus ArmorX, KastKing Valiant Eagle BFS, KastKing Spartacus II (I have a KastKing and like it), Ardent Apex Pro (I have an Ardent and like it), Shimano Caius (Shimano and the Caius have good reputations), Shimano SLX 150, Lew’s Speed Spool LFS 100, and Lew’s American Hero Speed Spool.

For rods in the above range, I recommend the Falcon BuCoo SR Series (I have one and love it), Falcon HD, Falcon Coastal XG, All Star Nano (I have one and love it), Lew’s TP1X, Lew’s Mach, Lew’s Hack Attack, Shimano GLF, Abu Garcia Vendetta, and Abu Garcia Veritas.  I used to like All Star Classics, but I’ve broken too many of them to recommend them.  The same applies to Castaways.

You can often get better deals by buying a rod & reel combo but look closely at them.  They often have good reels paired with cheap rods.

Have you ever hunted Choke Canyon Reservoir?

No.  It’s 187 miles from my house, so I’d have to leave around 12:30 AM to get there in time to set up decoys.  It has a good reputation, but it also has a lot of gators, including big ones.  Therefore, it’s best not to hunt alone or bring our dog for November or early December hunts.

What decoys do I need for duck hunting?

You can start an FCS chapter in your neck of the woods.  Our bylaws state: “V. Chapters:

A.  A minimum of two supporting FCS members are needed to start a Chapter.  These two supporting FCS members must serve as officers for their local Chapter (one as Chapter president and one as Chapter vice president).  Additional approved Chapter officer positions include Chapter treasurer, Chapter secretary, and Chapter Chaplin.  All Chapter officers must also be supporting FCS members.

B.  Each chapter will be governed by the FCS Bylaws and Statement of Faith.  Chapters may organize their own meetings and events and maintain their own funds.  Chapters can add their own bylaws and statement of faith, as long as they do not conflict with the FCS bylaws and statement of faith.

C.  Officers can vote in chapter officer elections for their chapter only.

There will be challenges for us to support chapters that are far away.  They will not be insurmountable, but they will exist.  However, they can be overcome with tools such as Zoom.

Spell out everything that you can think of so there are no surprises.  Our FAQs, About Us, History, Membership Info, Liability Waiver, and Sportsmen’s Links pages, in particular, may be of help to you in making decisions.  The Sportsmen’s Links page first lists Christian Sportsmen’s Links.  It will probably benefit you to see how other Christian hunting and fishing clubs other than us do things.

You’ll need money to pay for chapter expenses.  Your basic choices are to require chapter membership dues, to meet expenses by donations, or a combination of the two.

Interest polls, properly worded, they can tell you what your members are interested in doing and what they’re not interested in doing.

A website is a great way to promote your club.  Emphasize what is coming up and what you’ve done. Make it user friendly.  We use www.siteground.com and the WordPress blog program.

It’s better to start with a few events.  Promote them frequently and plan them well.  After you have a few successful events under your belt word will spread and there will be a demand to add more events to your calendar.

Don’t do as Moses did and try to do everything yourself.  If you do, you WILL burn out. Recruit people who you know and trust to be your officers.  Give them clear job expectations and follow up to ensure that they are doing their jobs.  Two hard-working involved officers are better than ten uninvolved ones.

Have prayer and devotionals at as many events as prudent.  Try to keep the devotionals to 15 minutes and under.  If you go longer than that you will lose many in your audience.  Perhaps it’s because our meetings start at 7:00 PM and people are tired from long days at work.  Or perhaps people have been overloaded with meetings and their brains can’t accept another one that late.  This will be true no matter where in the country a meeting is being held.

The following is by Jeremy Harrill with www.GoMission.net – Eight Truths They Don’t Tell You About Being An Outdoor Ministry Leader:

When ministry is done right, you’ll see God transform the lives of men around you.  Unfortunately we’re often told only about the “warm and fuzzy” side of ministry.  Negative happens, and if you let it blind-side you, it could take you out of the game entirely.  Here’s some brutal truths I’ve learned over the years.

The Biggest Disappointment In Ministry Is: Disappointment.  Why?  Because people are flawed, imperfect works in progress.  People will disappoint you.  And guess what, you will disappoint people too!  Show some grace, because you’ll want people to show you grace at some point, too.

Ministry Is Messy.  People often times only see the cool stuff (the camo, the hunting and fishing trips, the shirts with the ministry logo, big-burly dudes who would never step foot in a church accepting Christ at one of your events, etc.).  The real truth is that ministry is dirty and even nasty sometimes.  So don’t expect it to be easy.  You will have to deal with problems and there will be conflict.  Ministry is about pouring into people – often at the darkest times in their life.

Success Takes Time.  Ministry isn’t immune to life in a world of instant gratification.  We want to launch the ministry on Friday and have the Wild Game dinner or Outdoorsman Bible Study the next week.  Relationships take time, especially with men, so don’t expect it to take root overnight.  You cannot microwave relationships.  Be patient and well planned.

You Cannot Do It Alone.  Repeat this over and over again to yourself.  If you go it alone, you’ll kill the very movement you started.

It’s A Calling.  If it’s not – you will give up at the first sign of trouble.  Check out Jason Cruise’s MissionU piece for greater depth on the power of the call.

Numbers Do Not Tell Your Story.  Success is not measured by a number.  We are infatuated with “the numbers” in our society, especially in churches.  You hear it all the time at church: How many were there?  How many accepted Christ?  How much money did we raise?  Recently, a guy who was starting a Bible study for outdoorsmen say to me, “I only have 8 guys coming to the study.”  He sounded like he was giving up.  Never forget that Jesus started with 2: Simon and Andrew.  Don’t judge the ministry by a number.  If you have 3, then that’s 3 families that reap the benefits of a husband and father who comes home changed by interaction with the living God.

Expect Opposition.  In fact, if you aren’t getting any pushback at all, then something isn’t right.

Ministry Is Never About You.  It might sound harsh, but it’s true. It’s Gods ministry.  Let Him work through you.  Many who start outdoor ministry think it will open the door for more hunting opportunities.  Honestly, I think I hunt less than I did before all of this started.  John Maxwell said, “We impress people at a distance, we impact them up close.”  We’re in this business to impact people with the life-changing message of Christ, not to impress people.  That means getting in the pit with guys when they are struggling and doing life with them regularly.

FCS is a small (360+ member, but only 105 members who are current in their dues, as of the end of 2022) hunting, fishing, and sports shooting club.  We do not have, nor have we ever had, paid positions or internships and do not anticipate that will ever change.  Our officers are all volunteers.  We recommend that you contact the following for possible paid positions or internships:  Christian Bowhunters of America (44 chapters) and Legacy Outfitters (15 chapters).  For other Christian organizations that you might explore check out our Christian Sportsmen’s Clubs and Organizations Link web page.

Randy Rowley, FCS president, is flattered that many of you want him to attend a specific event.  FCS events are the heart and soul of FCS and they, along with spending time with his wife, kids, and grandkids are his top priorities.

Since 1991, when he became FCS president, he has attended almost 60% of FCS events.  For example, in 2025 he attended 50 out of 84 events.  With that many events, we have a few dates where more than one FCS event will occur at the same time.  Like you, it is impossible for him to be in two places at once.  Also, like most of you, he simply cannot afford to attend all of our more costly events, as his piggy bank only holds so much.  That means that he has to prioritize.

Furthermore, he attempts to take as many people as possible on his duck hunts and freshwater fishing trips.  If he has a duck hunt or freshwater fishing trip planned on the same date as another FCS event he will always attend the duck hunt or freshwater fishing trip because the only way that those events will happen is for him to be there (they can’t go in his boat without him).

From October through January he will be deer or duck hunting just about every weekend.  This means that there is no room for sporting clays shoots in his schedule for those months.  Hunting is his first love and he makes no apology for it.  So, if there is another event that is on the same day as a hunt guess which one will win.

See How to Renew.

See How to Join.

FCS supporting members are active in their membership dues.  Supporting FCS members have the following rights:

• Make amendment proposals to the FCS Bylaws, Statement of Faith, Annual Calendar of Events, and/or Annual Fiscal Year Budget;
• Participate in all supporting FCS member discussions and votes; and
• Check out (borrow) FCS equipment items, videos, and books.

Supporting FCS members will have their articles, classified ads, hunting and fishing stories, jokes, links, members’ profiles, pictures, poems, product and service reviews and recommendations, recipes, safety tips, and useful information for sportsmen submissions posted on the FCS website.  All FCS members will have their devotionals, praises, and prayer requests submissions posted on the FCS website.  FCS members who are presently not supporting the Club do not have the rights that supporting FCS members have.  All FCS members can purchase FCS Gear at any time.

FCS is not a political organization.  Politics does nothing to further our primary purpose “to encourage Christian fellowship opportunities for people who like to hunt, shoot, and fish” and only accomplishes division.  When we distributed something political, including political jokes, people sometimes became offended.  We lost a member, came extremely close to losing another member, lost a guest who probably would have joined, and have had a lot of heated words exchanged over politics.  Therefore, on 10/27/05, the active Club members approved added to our Bylaws that FCS is a “non-political” organization.

However, our purpose and Bylaws do not prevent us from encouraging everyone to vote for pro-gun/pro-hunting candidates.  We just won’t name a particular candidate or party.  Nor do they prevent us from letting our members and potential members know of political attacks on hunting, fishing, and guns (if we did not possess guns our opportunities to hunt would be very limited and we would no longer be able to shoot clay or other targets).  Call it self-preservation.

No.  We assist local churches by providing Christian fellowship and reaching sportsmen who won’t darken the door of a church.

Romans 13:1-5 exhorts us to “Let everyone be subject to the governing authorities, for there is no authority except that which God has established.  The authorities that exist have been established by God.  Consequently, whoever rebels against the authority is rebelling against what God has instituted, and those who do so will bring judgment on themselves.  For rulers hold no terror for those who do right, but for those who do wrong.  Do you want to be free from fear of the one in authority?  Then do what is right and you will be commended.  For the one in authority is God’s servant for your good.  But if you do wrong, be afraid, for rulers do not bear the sword for no reason.  They are God’s servants, agents of wrath to bring punishment on the wrongdoer.  Therefore, it is necessary to submit to the authorities, not only because of possible punishment but also as a matter of conscience.”

Christianity and obeying laws, including game laws, go hand and hand.  When we break a game law we’re rebelling against God.  A Christian club that is lax on game laws is a dishonor to God and a poor witness.  Therefore, we expect all game laws to be followed on FCS events in full.  Hunters and fishermen who deliberately and flagrantly break game laws will be asked to leave the FCS event that they are on and will be reported to the game warden.

FCS rarely goes on day deer hunts, as a lot of day leases are over hunted and most of our deer hunters are either on season or year-round leases, or own their own land, so they’re not interested in also going on day deer hunts.  They’ve invested a lot of money in stands, feeders, corn, and maintaining their lease, so they have no interest in paying to hunt a place somewhere else that has worse odds (because they’re over hunted) than the places that they’re season or year-round leasing.  Plus deer hunting is expensive.

Since 1988, we’ve only had five semi-guided day deer hunts.  Randy Rowley, who is the event coordinator for big game hunts, only arranges day deer hunts with people that he knows (and who have let him know that they’re willing to let FCS hunters hunt on their land).

For 2019 – 2023 FCS has had an “FCS members-only” dove lease near Bartlett.  The cost is $250 for both halves of the season.

If you are looking for a year-round, season, or day lease, here are five websites that advertise leases (they aren’t limited to just deer):

• Deer Texas Hunting Leases
• Hunting Lease Locator Service (their list costs $40)
• Lease Hunter
• Texas Hunting Lease
• TPWD

Since 1991 FCS has used a variety of officers to perform the work of the club.  The most that we have had serving at one time is ten and the fewest that we have had was three.  Although Randy Rowley, FCS president, has had and continues to have the most communication with current and future club members by far, our vice presidents and event coordinators also communicate to our members/guests on occasion.

While Randy is flattered that some people think that he should be doing all the communication, the reality is that is not possible for an organization of our size that is run by unpaid volunteers.  Back in 1991, we had the wisdom to develop different jobs because we recognized that one man could not do it all.  This is true now more than ever with over 70 events on our calendar for 2023 and over 360 members.

It is Randy’s goal to continue spreading the work of the club out over more and more people so if he gets hit by a bus the club will continue without a hitch.  Therefore, you will continue to hear from officers other than Randy.

Many outfitters and guides do what they do for a living.  When they book with a party they are possibly turning down other hunters or fishermen who want to hunt or fish on the same day.  To ensure that the party actually does show up, many outfitters and guides require not only an RSVP but also partial or full payment in advance.

Outfitters also will hire/schedule guides based on the size of the party.  For example, if we tell an outfitter that we will have eight duck hunters, for example, he will probably split the group between two guides.  But if two don’t show up then he’s out money because he could have had one guide handle the group of six.  Consequently, many outfitters will charge you for exactly the number of hunters you promised them.  If you tell them that you will have eight hunters and only six show up then they will still charge you for eight.

We have had this happen at least four times and it will happen no more.  So even if the land owner, outfitter, or guide doesn’t require a deposit we require the charter or guide fee to be paid in full as protection for those who do show up (so they don’t have to pay for the spot of someone who canceled at the last minute or didn’t show up).  Fishermen and hunters who do not pay the charter or guide fee by the due date will be removed from the list of people who RSVPed for the trip.  We realize that this might sound harsh, but irresponsible and inconsiderate behavior on the part of a few people has forced us to have to implement this policy.

We realize that not everyone agrees with this philosophy.  That’s fine.  We’ll be happy to give you the land owner(s), outfitter(s), or guide(s) name and contact information and you can schedule your own trip with him or her.

We try to find a balance between expensive and inexpensive events.  Through years of experience, we have learned that inexpensive hunting and fishing trips often result in poor harvests (you get what you pay for) and in frustrated participants who will not return.  We prefer to pay a standard landowner/outfitter/guide rate to have a better chance of success.  Additional expenses often include tips for guides, game cleaning fees (for those who wish to have their game cleaned), motel rooms, gas, and food.  But we also understand that not everyone can afford expensive events; therefore, we offer events with minimal costs.  At many events we are able to cut expenses by carpooling, sharing motel rooms, camping, and cooking out.

Many of our events are very affordable. The only required expense for our self-guided hog hunts is each hunter must bring corn to replenish the corn that the landowner threw out for him and shared gas and food.  Our self-chartered freshwater fishing trips usually only involve shared gas, a shared boat launch fee, and eating out one or two meals.  Our self-chartered bay fishing trips usually involve only shared gas, shared bait, and eating out.  Our self-guided duck hunts usually involve only shared gas and food and eating out one or two meals.  The cost for meetings is an optional meal fee (between $5.00 – $20.00, depending on what we’re cooking).  A round of sporting clays goes for $27.06.  Dove hunts cost $60.00 a day and up.

Our chartered bay and bass fishing trips, guided goose/duck/crane hunts, guided upland bird hunts, and semi-guided deer and hog hunts are held with reputable and experienced landowners, outfitters, and guides.  These events are more expensive but we do a lot of research to find the best deals for our bucks.  However, be aware that we do not offer a guaranteed harvest for any of the hunting or fishing trips that we book.

We are aware that expensive events usually are less well attended, but we are also aware that inexpensive events may be well attended one year but few people will attend them again because the results are often poor.

Hunting and fishing have become big business in Texas and across the country.  For example, years ago many farmers and ranchers would pay to have hunters remove hogs from their property.  Now most farmers and ranchers charge around $200/weekend for hunters to hunt their pigs.  Some even charge by the pound or the length of the tusk!  For the most part, the days of shooting a trophy animal for free are long gone.

Our focus is, and has always been, on adults (hence the name – ‘Sportsmen’).  We encourage members and guests to bring their children, other minor relatives, and other minors who are not related to them to FCS events, as long as they supervise them.  However, our focus is on adults who can pay their own way.  We have a ministry fund that is based solely on donations.  Our ability to pay a child’s sporting clays fee, for example, is limited.  Our ministry fund has paid for groups of children to shoot clay targets four times.  If the donations dry up, so does our ability to offer to pay for a child to shoot.  We have done shoots with two churches (one twice) and Kids Outdoor Zone (KOZ).  We also have helped Operations Orphans and Cross Trail Outfitters with donations of clothing, ammo, money, etc.  The above organizations, along with Hunt with Heart, all focus on children.  If you’re wanting to be involved in a Christian ministry that focuses on children, we encourage you to consider becoming involved with one or more of them.

Absolutely, if space allows.  Your spouse does not have to be an FCS member to participate in events; however, the Event Hierarchy (pecking order) applies.  Therefore, if a supporting member and your spouse or child want the last available spot for an event, the supporting member will get it.

We are very family-friendly.  Most of our events are designed to maximize fellowship.  Sporting clays shoots, dove hunts, meetings, banquets, and ministry events are excellent events to take families to.  Our sporting clays shoots are great events for men, women, and children to learn how to shoot or to improve their skills.  For hunts, we try to pair new hunters up with veterans so that the veterans can assist the newbies.  Guided deer/hog hunts, goose/duck/crane hunts, upland game bird hunts, and chartered bay and bass fishing trips are less family-friendly due to space limitations and gear requirements.  Also, some outfitters and guides charge a ‘spectator fee.’  If you bring a child please closely supervise them for their safety and the safety of others.

No.  Many FCS members and guests have extra equipment and would be happy to loan it to another member or guest with adequate notice and if it is available.  All events on our Calendar have an event coordinator listed.  Contact him or her if you need to borrow equipment.  Of course, equipment must be returned clean and in good working order.  If you break or lose something that you borrowed you must repair or replace it.  Also, only one shooter shoots at a time at our sporting clays and skeet shoots, so it is not necessary for everyone to have a shotgun (one shotgun will work for an entire squad).  However, for some events, such as dove hunting, each hunter will need a shotgun.

No.  We have all types of sportsmen at FCS events, from novices to veterans.  We delight in teaching others what we know.  However, some events require a certain amount of familiarity with techniques in order to be successful.  For example, it would be better for someone who has never shot to learn how to hit clay targets before trying his hand at dove hunting.  It would also be better for a novice fisherman to learn how to plastic worm fish before signing up for a guided bay fishing trip where the bait will be croakers and/or piggy perch (which have a bite similar to a bass hitting a plastic worm).

No; however, participation is encouraged.  The more that a person participates the more likely it is that he or she will feel that he or she is a part of the organization.  It is also more likely that he or she will develop friendships.  It’s a totally different thing to shoot sporting clays with a bunch of strangers than it is to shoot with a bunch of friends, for example.

No.  Anyone can attend FCS events.  However, people who will attend an event that is potentially hazardous must sign a Release of Liability Waiver before participating.  Anyone is welcome to join FCS providing that he or she has expressed a desire to be a member by completing an FCS Adult Membership Application and paid a membership due.  The primary reason that we have membership dues is to share expenses.  These include liability insurance, web hosting, our domain name, photocopying, postage, DVD purchases, miscellaneous office supplies, filling up the FCS propane tank, etc.  Membership also instills a sense of belonging and commitment.  We appreciate it when people join the Club and when members renew their memberships.

FCS hosts dozens of quality and affordable family events year-round throughout the state.  Examples of frequently hosted events include:

• 24-hour Sporting Clays Shoots
• Chartered Bay Fishing Trips
• Chartered Hybrid, Striped, and White Bass Fishing Trips
• Chartered Largemouth Bass Fishing Trips
• Family Celebration Banquets
• FCS Meetings/Dinners
• FCS Officers Meetings
• FCS Sporting Clays Shoots
• Guided Upland Bird (chukar, pheasant, and quail) Hunts
• Guided Waterfowl (duck and teal) Hunts
• Ministry Events (dinners)
• Self-chartered Bay Fishing Trips
• Self-chartered Freshwater Fishing Trips
• Self-guided/chartered Blasts and Casts (duck hunts and fishing trips)
• Self-guided Inland Duck and Teal Hunts
• Semi-guided Dove Hunts
• Semi-guided Hog Hunts
• Sporting Clays Tournaments
• Student Sporting Clays Shoots

We have hosted many other events, including:

• 5-stand, Flurry, Skeet, Trap, and Wobble Trap Shoots
• A Dart (archery) Shoot
• A Self-guided Varmint (bobcats and coyotes) Hunt
• A Semi-guided Hog and Sheep Hunt
• A Texas Hunter Education course
• A Turkey Shoot (shooting at clay targets – winners were awarded with frozen turkeys)
• Camping Trips
• Chartered and Self-chartered Deep-Sea Fishing Trips
• Guided Goose Hunts
• Guided Sandhill Cranes Hunts
• Hunting and Gathering (shopping) Trips
• Kayaking and Canoeing Trips
• Laser Tag Games
• License to Carry (LTC) Classes
• Nights at the Races (car)
• Promotions
• Self-guided Hog Hunts
• Self-guided Rabbit Hunts
• Self-guided Sheep Hunts
• Semi-guided Deer Hunts
• Shooting (handgun) Classes
• Shooting Range Shoots

We are a Christian club because our purpose is:

• To offer fellowship opportunities for people to experience hunting, fishing, and sports shooting.
• To encourage people to establish and maintain a personal relationship with Jesus Christ.
• To encourage people to serve God and others.
• To encourage people to fellowship in a local body of believers that teaches the Bible.

There are many clubs/organizations that focus on a particular animal or cause (e.g., Bass Anglers Sportsman Society, Ducks Unlimited, Pheasants Forever, Trout Unlimited, The National Wild Turkey Federation, The NRA, etc.). We choose to focus on hunting, fishing, shooting, and similar activities in a Christian atmosphere.  We are not ashamed of the gospel (good news) of Jesus Christ and that we are his disciples. We are not going to attempt to hide who we are just because it might offend some who are perishing (destined for hell because they do not belong to Jesus) or Christians who are ashamed to let people know that they belong to Jesus.

On 1/19/09, the officers unanimously agreed that we should be up-front about who we are and that sportsmen who are put off by our name would also be put off by the things that we do (hold devotionals and pray) and not do (gamble, cheat on our spouses, etc.) even if we changed our name to a more generic one, such as The Hill Country Sportsmen’s Club.

I’m looking for a decent lever-action rifle in a caliber that I can find ammo for.  One of the most popular is the 30-30 and I’d be ok with it but was more looking for something in the .38/.357.  I had a Rossi 38/357 that I sold a few years ago and I really miss it.  To me, the gem would be a model 94 with something other than a .30-30.

For traditional lever guns, you might consider the Marlin 1895 (comes in .45/70 Government) and the Marlin 336C (comes in .35 Remington and .30-30).  The .45/70 Government and .35 Remington have considerably more oomph than the .30-30, but they’re harder to find ammo for.  (I’d find a source of ammo before I bought one.)

For non-traditional lever guns, consider the Browning BLR.  It uses a box magazine, so it is not limited to flat-nosed cartridges.  It comes in popular cartridges such as .30-06. .308, .270. and .243.

Do you have a gunsmith that you use?  What is your opinion of his work?  Currently, I use Hank Fleming on South Congress.  I think he is good but he seems to take a while for repairs to be completed.

Any recommendations for a local Taxidermist? 

What are two – three of the best crossbows for your money?  Can you hunt with a crossbow in the archery season?  Where are some places that will let you test crossbows?

Killer Instinct, Center Point, Wicked Ridge, Excalibur, Bear, PSE, and Horton are well known, although Horton went out of business.  Raven and Tenpoint are very good but a lot more expensive.  I bought a Killer Instinct KI350 (350 feet per second).  It has a lifetime warranty (the best in the industry).  It came with a Lumix illuminated 4x32mm crossbow scope and cost $220, including shipping.  Barnett has some budget bows, but Archery Country won’t work on them.

Yes, the Texas Legislature passed a law several years ago that made it legal for anyone to hunt with a crossbow during archery season (or gun season), not just people with upper extremity weakness.

I’m not sure if Archery Country will let you shoot crossbows on their indoor range.  I advise that you call them at 512-452-1222 before you head there.  Bass Pro Shops and Cabela’s also have small indoor ranges for people to test their compound bows.  I’m not sure if they offer the same service for crossbows.  I recommend that you call them before you head there.

Could you send me the process of how you do European mounts?

I wrote an article on the subject called Skull Mounting Basics.  Be forewarned – it’s a stinky job.

Do you know of anyone I can call and ask questions about a silencer?

Call the Silencer Shop at 512-843-0017 or contact Ryan Rowley.

How do I get an inexpensive gun appraisal in a short amount of time?

No, there are no issues presently with gifting guns.  However, if many people get their way and close what they call the “gun show loophole” you would have to transfer them via a licensed firearms dealer, which would require the recipient to complete the ATF Form that gun buyers complete when we buy a gun at a dealer.  At least the recipient would have to pay the dealer a transfer fee.  It would be another layer of unneeded bureaucracy that would protect no one.  Their theory that criminals would no longer be able to buy guns at gun shows is bogus, as criminals don’t buy guns – they steal them.  (I realize that’s shocking.)

It all depends on where you are hunting.  I prefer Real Tree Max-4 or Mossy Oak Break Up as they fit in a variety of terrains, with the exception of South Texas, where Brush Country is king.  The general rule is to go with more greenish camo early in the season, when there are more green leaves on the trees and a more brownish camo later in the season when the leaves have fallen off the trees.

Deer are red-green color blind like some humans.  Their color vision is limited to the short [blue] and middle [green] wavelength colors.  As a result, deer likely can distinguish blue from red, but not green from red, or orange from red.  So deer hunters up north, who are forced to wear hunter orange, appear to be green to deer.  Pigs can differentiate colors, but not as well as humans.

Waterfowl don’t see color the way we do.  They see reds, greens, yellows, and blues more vibrantly – thanks to their retinas – plus an extra set of cones allows them to see ultraviolet radiation.  This gives them exceptional light sensitivity.  As a result, shine and glare are the waterfowl hunter’s enemy.  For ducks, a lot of guys prefer Real Tree Max-5, as it has canes in it, which are often located on shorelines.  However, they aren’t on the shorelines where I hunt usually, so I get by with my one-camo-fits-all Real Tree Max-4 or Mossy Oak Break Up.

You can see the different styles in the below picture. Four of the guys are wearing Max-5.  I think that I’m wearing Mossy Oak Break Up, as is Earl immediately to the right of the ducks.  I’m just happy to find camo on sale that fits me.  I don’t pay much attention to the pattern.  You’ll often see me wearing a different pattern top than bottom for this reason.  Some guys, on the other hand, want everything to match.  But I kill deer, hogs, and ducks just as dead as they do – I just don’t look as coordinated.

What baitcaster rod and reel combo is your pick?  Do you do a right-handed or left-handed retrieve?

My massage guy’s brother has started manufacturing 9mm with some Army friends as a business and has a large capacity press.  I am considering buying a brick of 500 9mm 115-grain bullets for $350.  What are other details I should ask and know before deciding?  The projectile type, powder measurements, etc.?  Do you know of a reliable source for ammo that I should review first?

The pressure of the rounds should not be greater than the recommended maximum pressure – 35,000 psi.  However, as these are undoubtedly target rounds (FMJ) that shouldn’t be a problem.  Another thing to be concerned about is the cases.  Brass cases are preferred, followed by aluminum, then steel.  Some guns have trouble chambering and/or ejecting aluminum and/or steel cased ammo.  As these are Army guys I’d bet my lunch that they’ll be brass.

Lastly, foreign components (cases, powder, primers, and bullets) can be a concern.  However, again, as these are Army guys I’d bet my lunch and dinner that everything is at military specifications (Mil-Spec) and made in the USA.

Be aware that some gun manufacturers will void their warranty if you shoot non-factory ammo and especially if you shoot reloads.  Your gun’s manufacturer may consider these shells to be reloaded.  I recommend that you read your warranty and check with your gun’s manufacturer if in doubt.

Gunbroker has a lot of ammo for sale from businesses and individuals.  Most are in cases of 10 or more boxes.  They have auctions like eBay and “Buy it now.”  That price is in line with prices that I’ve seen on Gunbroker.  Academy, when it has them, doesn’t allow you to buy more than three boxes.

For hard-to-find ammo, I’ve been partial to gunbroker and ammoseek, which searches all ammo seller sites for what you’re looking for.

However, if you don’t want to wait for it to be mailed to you, I’d try Academy.  They had several cases of dove loads and boxes of .22 LR the other day (325 shells per box).  I didn’t look for 9mm.

I need advice on 9mm ammo.  I may do some target shooting.  But also would like to keep some hollow points on hand should the need ever arise.  Not planning to carry.  I have a WWII German 9mm that I got checked out and it is good-to-go.  I‘m thinking run-of-the-mill, but brass, not steel.

For practice ammo, I’m partial to Winchester White Box and Remington UMC.

For hollow points, I’m partial to Remington Ultimate Defense, Winchester PDX1, Speer Gold Dot, Speer Lawman, Hornady Critical Defense, and Federal Hydra Shock.

I have a Garmin Echomap 94SV on Cam’s (my boat’s) center console.  It has very sharp graphics and is touch screen, instead of buttons.  The 93SV has freshwater lake maps and the 94SV has saltwater lake maps (I learned this after I had my 94SV installed).  You can buy a chip to add the bodies of water that are missing (a major design flaw, in my opinion – it should come with all the bodies of water that you need already installed).

I have a Humminbird Helix 7 on Cam’s bow.  My Minn Kota trolling motor is supposed to plot using a Helix 7 or larger, but I’ve not messed with it as my Helix’s GPS has stopped working.

A couple of friends love the Garmin Livescope, but they’re $2,500, which is way outside of my budget.

Lowrance, Humminbird, and Garmin are the Ford’s, Chevy’s, and Dodge’s of the fish finder world.  You really can’t go wrong with any of them.

Here are some articles:

• https://www.sonarwars.com/best-finders-under-1000/.  The first one that they listed (the Garmin Echomap UHD 93sv) Bass Pro will have on sale for $600 from 11/23 – 11/29.
• https://infisherman.com/best-fish-finder-undusable
• https://youtu.be/AX9OUvxc5NE
• https://youtu.be/NcAwxZ56j2Y– another vote for the Garmin Echomap UHD 93sv
• https://youtu.be/FUk4EVtdOUg
• https://fishfinderbrand.com/best-fish-finder-gps-combos-under-1000/.  They really like Raymarine – I’m not familiar with them.

I know you duck hunt Granger, but have you ever bass fished it?  If you have, could you tell me anything about it?  Where did you put in?  Did you ever fish the river?

TPWD rates it poor for largemouths.  See Fishing Granger Lake.  I’ve never caught a largemouth there – only white bass.  It’s an excellent crappie and catfish lake.

The entire lake is surrounded by Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) – Sorefinger, Pecan Grove (below the dam), San Gabriel, and Willis Creek and parks Fox, Taylor, Willis Creek, and Friendship (going clockwise from the dam).  Here is a map of the lake – https://www.swf-wc.usace.army.mil/granger/Brochures/Granger%20Lake%20Map.pdf.

The San Gabriel WMA has a lot of stumps and trees in the water and the Willis Creek WMA has a lot of trees in the water. Straying from the channel in the San Gabriel WMA and on the San Gabriel River is foolish.  I usually hit six stumps on my way (at idle speed) to where we hunt in the dark and hit six more on the way back to the ramp in the daylight.  I’ve seen bass boats blowing through the channel at 50 MPH, which borders on suicidal.

The lake’s water level varies considerably, so there are plenty of stumps that you can see when the lake is at its normal pool but if the lake raises a foot or two you won’t’ see them, and then – Wham!

Therefore, I recommend that you fish the Sorefinger WMA if you still want to fish it.  It has a lot fewer trees and stumps.  There is a 24-hour ramp at Friendship Park, which is on the east border of the Sorefinger WMA.  It’s on FM 971, near the dam.

You would think that with all the timber that the bass fishing would be good, but that’s definitely not the case.

What depths do the lures in the below pictures run?

On the top are plastic worms with some brass and beads for Carolina rigging and what looks like spinnerbait trailer hooks.  Worms will not sink unless you use a worm weight to make them sink.  Here is an assortment – https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-xps-60-piece-worm-weight-kit?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&affcode_c=&gclid=CjwKCAjwyo36BRAXEiwA24CwGfb5QuvO-GMBTNJ-asJtcPPOy0vEZbXdRBdK7aq6VFFmFZfSUw_vehoCOuAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Rigging tips – https://www.wideopenspaces.com/4-ways-to-rig-a-worm-weight/.

Texas rig – https://shopkarls.com/blog/texas-rig-101-need-know-t-rig/.

Carolina rig – https://officiallakeforktrophybass.com/how-to-setup-a-carolina-rig/.  Brass weights work best for Carolina rigs.  See https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-carolina-weights.

How quickly they sink depends on the weight you choose, which depends on the wind and worm size/weight.  They’ll eventually sink to the bottom.  Worm fishing is a very slow way to fish.  Be sure to use offset gap worm hooks in sizes 2/0 – 5/0 and not the spinnerbait trailer hooks that are in the picture.

The two square-bill crankbaits below the worms will run 4 – 6′ deep.  They’re great to use around trees and rocks, as they bounce off structure.  They, and round-bill crankbaits, only sink when you start to retrieve them.  Fish them medium to fast.  The faster you retrieve them the deeper they sink.  Stop and go is a good technique for them.  Stop the retrieve, wait for a second or two, then start it again.  The stop and go method makes bass think the baitfish is wounded.  They’ll often hit it when it stops.  However, don’t stop it for too long as it will float back up to the surface.

The three lipless crankbaits on the top and middle left will sink about 1’/second for 3/4 ounce, 9″/second for 1/2 ounce, and 6″/second for 1/4 ounce.  Let them sink about 4′ and retrieve them medium to fast, like a fleeing baitfish.  Also, be careful using lipless crankbaits around rocks.  They will sometimes sink between two rocks and get stuck.

Below them is another square-bill crankbait.

To the right is a jerkbait.  A jerkbait dives 4 – 7′ unless it’s a weighted “count-down” version.  Those drop similarly to lipless crankbaits.  Here is how to fish them – https://www.onthewater.com/how-to-fish-a-jerkbait.

The top left and middle are Jitterbugs.  Below them are Hula Poppers.  To the right are Pop-R’s.  They are all topwater baits and don’t sink.  They’re designed to make splashes on the top, like a fleeing baitfish.  Fish then slow.  Pop, wait for a second or two, and pop them again.  Topwaters work best early, late, at night, and when it’s overcast.

On the left side, is a spinnerbait.  It will sink similarly to a lipless crankbait.  Fish them slow.  If bass are missing them, add one of your above spinnerbait trailer hooks.

The others are jointed swimbaits.  They’ll dive from 2 – 4′.  Fish them like crankbaits.  See https://youtu.be/K1cBq1QnC6U.

That’s a good assortment.  All that you need are frogs, propeller topwaters (Whopper Ploppers or Heddon Baby Torpedos), dog walkers (zig-zag topwater baits), Buzz Baits, round-bill crankbaits, chatterbaits (bladed jigs), jigs, more soft plastics (crawdads, lizards, grubs, Zoom Super Flukes, and creature baits like the Zoom Baby Brush Hog, and soft 4 – 5″ swimbaits on a 1/4 – 3/8 ounce swimbait head, like this one.

Is smoke-colored or dark green fishing line OK to fish with?  Is there a better color or “type” to use?

I wouldn’t hesitate to use either.  The line will look different under the water than it will out of it.  Also, a fish will see it differently than we will.  When light enters the water, its intensity quickly decreases, and its color changes.

Fluorocarbon line is touted by line companies as the most invisible line on the market. It is said to have the same light refraction properties as water, making it as invisible as fishing line can get.  It is well suited for all water clarities. This near-invisible quality of the line is the way to go in ultra-clear water and, theoretically, will lead to increased bites from spooky fish that are used to seeing line connected to lures.  But Fluoro is expensive – often costing twice as much as equivalent mono, or more.  It also sinks so you don’t want to use it for topwater lures.

There are many colors of mono.  Besides the two that you mentioned you can find it in light blue, yellow, and even red.  Supposedly blue is best for saltwater and yellow is best for muddy water.  Red is supposed to be near-invisible under the water, but divers say that red objects look black, so I’ve never tried it.  Green and smoke tend to blend in with water that is not ultra-clear or muddy.

Braided line typically comes in dark greens, smoke, or black.  It’s as expensive as Fluoro or more so.  It’s also tricky to fish with, especially using a baitcasting reel.  In my experience, when I get a backlash with braided line it often results in me having to remove all the line on the spool, as it has a tendency to dig into itself.  I use braided line for frogs and other soft plastics and umbrella/Alabama rigs.

More important than line color is line size, especially in clear water and for certain fish.  For example, crappie are very adept at seeing line, so most crappie fishermen use 6, 4, or even 2 lb. test line.  I have 12 lb. Suffix mono on most of my reels, but if I’m fishing in ultra-clear water or for crappie I’ll switch to 6 lb. Suffix mono.  Trilene also makes good mono.  I’m not a fan of Stren.

Do you use Loctite to keep fiberoptic shotgun sights from pivoting right or left?

Do you know anyone who does gun bluing?

I had McBride’s re-blue a shotgun barrel once.  They sent it out to someone.  Their matte finish didn’t last more than three duck hunts on the coast.  So, I sold the gun and bought a camo one.  FCS guest Jim Irwin, Paul Irwin’s dad, owns Irwin Restorations LLC.  He is a fully licensed gunsmith located conveniently next door to Shady Oaks Gun Range at 3100 Woodall Dr., Cedar Park.  His phone number is 512-294-6331 and his email address is jimirwin@austin.rr.com.  Also, you might try Blackjack Gunsmithing at 13043 Pond Springs Rd., Austin.  Their phone number is 512-450-3535 and their email address is blackjackguns@gmail.com. I don’t know if either does blueing, but I’ll bet that they do.

I just noticed some surface rust (toothpick size freckles) on the blued barrel of my Remington Wingmaster – my fault completely for leaving it in storage for too long and probably did not clean it well enough the last time I used it.  A quick Google suggests I should use 00/000 steel wool to wipe them and re-blue the barrel with Birchwood Casey’s Cold Blue.  Does this sound right to you?  Would you do it any differently?

I would take some gentle solvent and the finest steel wool that you can find to clean your barrel.  Scrub it very lightly.

Re-bluing is a time consuming and difficult endeavor.  I’ve never tried it, but it’s an all or nothing proposition (you can’t do just “spots”).  The one time that I needed a barrel to be reblued was because there was dime to quarter-sized splotches on the barrel after a coastal duck hunt.  I had McBride’s do it.  It cost $115 or so.

With toothpick sized spots a future buyer will hardly notice/care.  So, if it were me I’d leave it alone if you can’t clean it off.

How does someone get involved in the Austin Christian Bass Club?

I was a member of ACBC for two years, probably a decade ago.  They’re a great group of guys and I enjoyed fishing with them, but found that trying to keep up with my FCS duties, attend 40+ FCS events a year (on average), and fish with the ACBC guys was too much for me to handle (and stay married), so I stopped going to their tournaments and meetings.

Back then, the annual dues were $24.  They might be higher now.  The way that their tournaments worked is the rigger paid for the boat and vehicle gas and the non-rigger paid for the tournament entry fee.  Back then it was $20.  It’s probably higher now.  I can’t remember how boat ramp fees/park entrance fees were handled.

Back when I was a member, they met on the third Thursday evening each month and fished the following Saturday (I think that they’re still doing it that way).  Teams are chosen by drawing.  They put all the riggers names in one cap and the non-riggers in another.  A rigger won’t fish with a rigger.  They don’t allow you to fish with someone more than once a year – this encourages a fisherman to get to know more men.

Their tournaments are “paper” ones (bass aren’t kept).  You record the bass that you catch on their weight sheet.  Then you add up your best five.  It’s based on the honor system.  Tournament prizes are either trophies or small brass plates to put on a perpetual plaque.  They primarily fish local lakes (Fayette, Decker, Austin, Travis, Bastrop, and Stillhouse Hollow were their favorites when I was a member) but they have one tournament a year at a lake that is considerably further away (e.g., Richland Chambers).

Here is their website.  Here is their Contact Us web page.  I don’t see a way to join on their website, so I recommend that you contact them to find out what their procedures are.

I have a buddy who is an avid hunter but has been fighting a good fight over the last couple of years with Chronic Fatigue Syndrome.  It would really be a special deal to get this guy out on a hog hunt.  The problem is he gets really tired real quick so not able to do a lot of walking/stalking and has to be a close drive from cedar park.  Are you aware of any place within a 30-45 min drive from Cedar Park that I could take him hog hunting?  We will use my night vision and thermals and really would not need a guide unless the property owner would require it.

The vast majority of hog hunts on game ranches are semi-guided (the guide shows you where the stands, feeders, cleaning station, and gut dump are and then leaves you on your own).  Rarely do game ranches allow self-guided hunts.  Rarer still do they offer fully guided hunts.

Some ranches have more success with group stalks.  Others have more success with stand hunting.  I’ve had success with both, although stalking should be limited to daylight hours unless all parties have night vision equipment.

Some ranches are geared for night hunting, with motion-activated lights under their feeders.  Some just have stands and feeders.

Unfortunately, hog hunting is an exhausting endeavor.  For example, Burl Fulenwider and I hunted at a ranchette just outside of Austin (unfortunately that property is no longer an option as the owners moved into their house and the wife wanted all hunting activities to cease).  We arrived at 7:45 PM on Friday and hunted a makeshift stand until 3:30 AM on Saturday (and only saw five deer).  I got home at 4:00 AM and I’m still feeling the effects of staying up that late four days later.  We also just had four hunters hunt on a ranch near Rocksprings (186 miles away).  Two hogs were killed and one was missed.  All shots were during daylight hours.  They didn’t see anything at night, which is typically when you see hogs, as they’re predominantly nocturnal.

Unfortunately, I don’t know of any reasonable ranches within a 30 – 45 minute drive of Cedar Park.  Most hog hunting ranches are further east, south, west, or north.  Our previous hunt was near Crockett, 170 miles away.  The hunt before that was near Gonzales, 82 miles away.

Where I can get hog hunting lights like yours, either red or green?

For freshwater fishing here in central Texas, have you heard of any spot with good fishing reports that could be fished from the bank?  I’m wanting to take some friends who do not fish that much to a great spot.  But I don’t have access to a boat.

What caliber rifle should I get for my kiddo for deer and hogs?

The .243 Winchester is the minimum caliber that most manufacturers/sellers recommend for deer-sized game.  In fact, the Independence Ranch (where we used to hunt hogs) doesn’t allow anything smaller than a .243 to be used to hunt their hogs.  It’s offered in 80 and 100 grain loads, with the former being preferred for varmints and the latter being preferred for deer-sized game.  It’s the best choice for kids and many adults.  The 6mm Creedmoor and 6mm Remington (both are .244 caliber) have similar cartridge offerings to the .243, but their ammo is harder to find.

Don’t get anything in the .224 family (.223, .22-250, etc.).  Most of the loads for those calibers are varmint loads.  It says so right on the boxes.  Deer-sized game is not what most of their loads are designed for.  The few cartridges that are designed for deer-sized game use 62 grain loads or larger.  The 100 grain .243 has a 38% larger bullet.  With the .224 family there is less room for error so the hunter must have better shot placement than they would with calibers that are designed for deer-sized game.  Yes, many people have killed lots of deer-sized game with them, but most of those hunters have years of experience and have become expert shots.  Most kids don’t have years of experience and aren’t expert shots.  Put a .224 in their hands and you’ll be looking at a long track, and very possibly not recovering the game, which will cause it needless pain and suffering.  If a kid who is inexperienced/not an expert uses a cartridge designed for deer-sized game, you probably won’t have a long track or any at all, and the game will expire quickly.

Don’t get anything bigger than a .243, such as a 6.5 Creedmoor, .25-06, .260, .270, .280, 7mm-08, .308, .30-06, .30-30, etc.  They kick a lot more and your kiddo possibly will never want to shoot again.  Don’t get them any cartridge with the word “Magnum” in it’s name.  They can graduate to bigger calibers as they age/get bigger.  Also, .25-06, .260, .280, and 7mm-08 ammo is harder to find.

Why not use a 20 gauge?

A 20 gauge has two distinct advantages.

The first is weight.  They’re between a 1/2 – 1 lb. lighter than the same model 12 gauge and their shells are lighter.  Again, given the above example, 1/8 ounce/shell = 3.125 ounces/box.  As most of the dove hunters that I know carry three boxes of shells with them in the field, that’s 9.375 ounces or a little more than half a pound.  For the 12 gauge dove hunter, a one pound heavier gun and half-pound heavier shells can mean a more fatigued hunter who will start to miss easy shots.  So, if you’re going to only hunt dove-sized game birds and shoot clay targets, a 20 gauge is a good choice.

The second is recoil.  Generally a 20 gauge of the same make and model will kick less than a 12 gauge.  However, there are exceptions.  Generally, the lighter the gun the more it will kick.  Just about the hardest kicking gun that I owned was a Franchi AL-48 recoil-operated 20 gauge that weighed five pounds.  I quickly traded it.  Recoil is more of a consideration for kids, people of smaller stature, and people who have sustained shoulder or neck injuries.  It’s also a consideration for heavier loads.

However, a 20 gauge has two distinct disadvantages.

The first is payload.  A 20 gauge has less pellets, given the same load type (for example, game load compared to game load).  For example, with 8 shot, a 1 oz. field load 20 gauge = 400 pellets.  A 1 1/8 oz. field load 12 gauge = 450 pellets.  The increased payload of the 12 gauge makes a big difference with ducks/pheasants and larger game birds or animals.  However, if your targets are only going to be dove-sized game birds or clay targets, then there isn’t a lot of difference (usually 12.5%) between the 12 gauge and 20 gauge payloads, given the same load type.

The second is cost.  To equal the payload of a 12 gauge 1 oz. game load you’d have to buy a 20 gauge 1 oz. field load, which will cost $1.50 – $2 more per box than a box of 12 gauge game loads, or $15 – $20 more per case.  Most hunters don’t want to pay more to get the same firepower.  But again, if you can live with 1/8 ounce less shot than the equivalent 12 gauge load type (i.e., game load to game load), you won’t have to spend more money.  Also, a box of 12 gauge 1 oz. game loads costs the same as a box of 20 gauge 7/8 oz. game loads, if both are the same brand and shell load (e.g., Winchester Game Loads), so you get 12.5% more shot with the 12 gauge for the same cost.

The bottom line – if your targets are only going to be dove-sized game birds or clay targets and you aren’t bothered by having a 12.5% less payload compared to the same load type in 12 gauge, then a 20 gauge is a fine choice.  But if you plan to hunt ducks/pheasants or larger game birds or animals, you’ll probably find a 20 gauge lacking.

Have you ever noticed a difference in shooting a 12 gauge compared to a 20 gauge?  I have noticed my shooting is not as good with the 20 as with the 12.

20 gauge loads have, on average, 12 1/2% (1/8 ounce) less shot than a 12 gauge.  A 12 gauge game/target load is 1 ounce and it’s 7/8 ounce for a 20 gauge.  Also, because a 20 gauge has a longer shell to width makeup, it has a longer shot string (it takes the shot at the end of the shell more time to reach the target than the shot at the front of the shell).  This can result in more “holes” in the pattern and missed shots.  You could be spot on but a bird could make it through your pattern easier with a 20 gauge.

Does the Club go deer hunting?  Does the Club hunt hogs for food, or is the intent just to kill them and leave them?

The Club rarely goes on day deer hunts.  As a lot of day leases are over hunted, I, as I’m in charge of big game hunts, only arrange day deer hunts with people who I know (and who let me know that they’re willing to let us hunt on their land).  Since 1988, we’ve only had five semi-guided day deer hunts.

Most of our deer hunters are either on season or year-round leases, so they’re not interested in also going on day deer hunts.  They’ve invested a lot of money in stands, feeders, corn, and maintaining their lease, so they have no interest in paying to hunt a place somewhere else that has worse odds (because they’re over hunted) than the places that they’re season or year-round leasing.

We require hunters to take home the meat that they harvest or donate it to the needy.  In our history, we’ve only had two hunters who didn’t want the hogs they shot, but other hunters took the meat home.  The following is in our Rules of Conduct – “Participants agree to: Never kill or shoot at birds or animals that they do not intend to eat or are not doing so to assist in wildlife depredation (e.g., shooting at sparrows and dragonflies.”

My son and I have never been deer hunting and were hoping to go this winter.  I do not see any events on your calendar for this.  Is that correct?  If you do not have a deer hunting event, where do you recommend going for beginners?

Marc Ritter reports that the Safari Club International had/has? a youth hunt program with land owners to cull does.  For example, here’s an article on a ranch in Michigan that allowed youth hunters to harvest deer – Legends Ranch Hosts Special Youth Challenge Hunts for SCIF Youth Pathfinders.  Tom Hewitt reports that SCI clubs in Texas supports youth hunting organizations.  The Dallas Safari Club, not affiliated with SCI, also supports youth organizations.

Jim Bradley reports that the Texas Wildlife Association and the TPWD have Youth Hunting Programs.

Tom Hewitt reports that Operation Orphans actively offers children in homes the opportunity to be outdoors at host ranches.

Kevin McConnell reports that he has been a hunt master for the Texas Youth Hunting Program (TYHP) for over 20 years.  The Austin Woods and Waters club runs the largest youth hunt in the world every year out of Cave Creek, near Fredericksburg.  See http://TYHP.org to register and apply for the hunt.  It is usually the first or second weekend of January.  Let him know if you have any questions at kmcaustin@gmail.com.  Tom Hewitt reports that the TYHP is the largest in the USA.  Allen Hansen reports that TYHP does over 100 hunts a year.

My son lives in Seattle and wants to hunt deer and elk.  He wants some advice and any possible leads you might have for a good gun to use.  Do you recommend new or used?  What’s a good all-around gun with abundant and cheaper ammo?  30-06?   Plastic or wood stock?  Best reasonable scope?

Here are a couple of articles that will get you started:

• Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle
• Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle Scope

I haven’t updated the first article since 2009, so the prices for those guns are higher now.  Also, there are different versions of the manufacturers’ rifles or they offer new rifles entirely.  For example, Browning now offers an X-bolt, which is basically an A-bolt on steroids.

I updated the second article on 9/10/20.  I will eventually update the first article.

As to calibers, since elk is in the equation, I’d recommend at least a .270 or 7mm08.  I’d definitely go with the more popular calibers, especially right now, as there has been a substantial ammo shortage and your odds of finding ammo for a .280 Remington (for example) will be lower.  They’ve been making .30-06 since 1906 and it comes in bullet weights from 110 – 220 grains.  I’d use 150 – 165 grain on deer and 180 grain on elk.  The 6.5 Creedmoor has become a very popular caliber and I see several boxes of it every time that I go to Academy.  It’s supposed to be a flat shooter.  But it’s only 0.2559, which would be iffy on elk (a .270 Winchester is actually .277).  My order of preference would be .30-06, .308 (very available ammo and just slightly less performance than the ’06), and .270.

I’d go with a bolt action, as I’m a traditionalist.  However, I recently bought an AR in .300 Blackout for hogs, and if the riots come to my neighborhood.  For years I despised them and called them “toy guns.”  But I’m starting to like it and upgrading parts and adding things is fun.  The problem with an AR is most are chambered in .223/5.56 which was designed for varmints (but they make a few deer capable bullets for it).  .300 Blackout is a short-range cartridge.  The 6.5 Grendel is very hard to find and expensive.  The ammo is very hard to find.  .308 would be your best bet but those AR-10’s are expensive.  Remington makes an AR with typical deer calibers but it’s very expensive.  Pumps aren’t as accurate.  Neither are lever actions with the exceptions of the Browning BLR and the Savage Model 99.  Lever actions have mostly short-ranged calibers (with the above exceptions).  All of the bolt guns in my article are accurate, reliable, and similarly priced.  The Remington will be the most readily available.  I have a Model 700 BDL but if I were buying today I’d buy the CDL with the box magazine.

As to where to find one – I’m seeing more rifles show up at Academy.  I’ve also had good luck on www.gunbroker.com  I’ve bought five guns there and sold three.  It’s like eBay.  There are auctions and “Buy it Now.”  You must have the rifle shipped to an FFL dealer (my son is now one, in Liberty Hill).  Gunbroker has a list of FFL dealers per state.  They all do the same service, so I’d go with the cheapest one.  For example, Ryan charges $20 to receive a gun.  Find the rifle you want and shop.  It doesn’t take long to find the best price.  Just know that what guys are asking for on gunbroker is often not what the going rate is.  Some guys ask a high price and are counting on guys who don’t like to shop or are impulsive.  Follow/watch some auctions that are going on for the gun you want.  When it sells it will show you what it sold for.

I bought a Browning Gold shotgun on eBay for $480 several years ago.  The going price at the time was $750.  The reason that it was cheaper was it came only with one screw-in full choke.  After I receive it I bought two new chokes (Improved Cylinder and Modified) at Academy for $20 each and had a complete gun for $520.  But I was patient – I looked for around six months to find that diamond in the rough.

I’m not averse to buying a used gun, although I’d avoid used AR’s.  They’re often shot to hell and back and you just never know what’s about to break.  There aren’t too many things that can break on a bolt-action.  If you use gunbroker you’ll get it in the mail, unless you can find one where they’re selling it where you live and allow it to be picked up.  Texas Gun Trader is 100% face-to-face exchanges.  So, if you buy a used one from gunbroker make sure that the ad allows an examination period/return policy. You might need to send it back if it is not in the condition that was advertised.  Good sellers will post several pictures of the gun they’re selling.  Beware of stock photos unless it’s new.  If you see that a new rifle is only $50 or so more than a used one buy it as you’ll get the warranty.

I’m a wood and blue steel guy but have come to appreciate synthetic.  For rifles, it doesn’t change the point of impact from the weather changing, which wood is notorious for.  So if you get wood make sure that the barrel has been floated (you should be able to slide a dollar bill all the way down the length of it).  I’m also a big fan of 2.5 – 3.5 lb. triggers.  Most factory triggers are set at 7.5 lbs. to avoid lawsuits.  A trigger job makes a rifle much more accurate.

I go into copious details in my Choosing a Rifle Scope article.  As he won’t be hunting hogs a 3-9X40 will be adequate.  I really like Vortex and Burris.  They both have forever warranties.  I have a Vortex Crossfire II 3-9X50 with an illuminated V-bright dot in the reticle on my deer rifle.  It cost me $209 new.  Optics Planet is a good place to get optics.  As is Midway USA, Natchez Shooting Supply, and even Amazon (which has competitive prices).  Find the scope you want and shop.  As with rifles, it doesn’t take long to find the best price.

What binoculars do you recommend for deer?

FCS doesn’t have an article that specifically addresses binoculars, but if you Google “Best Binoculars for deer hunting” I’m sure that several articles will pop up.  The important things to keep in mind are they should be waterproof/fog proof (if they fog up they’re of no use to you), weight (think light), and magnification/objective lens (8 X 42 or 10 X 42).  I own Vortex Sidewinders and Nikon Prostaff.  I got the former used on eBay for $80 and the later new on eBay for $90.  They both come with a lifetime transferable warranty.  They are both 10 X 42.  Go to a place that sells them like Academy.  Try out several pairs.  Read some distant signs in the store with them.  See which ones enable you to read the sign the best and are the clearest.  You certainly can spend a lot more money than I did, but I don’t see a compelling reason to.

What accessories do I need to add to my stock/basic AR for hog and deer hunting and for home defense?

I recommend the following AR accessories for hog and deer hunting and home defense:

1. Scope and scope mount.  For scopes see Choosing a Deer and Hog Rifle Scope.  For mounts I recommend the Burris Optics P.E.P.R. Riflescope Mount, Featuring Picatinny Ring Tops.  $75 at https://www.amazon.com/Burris-410343-Riflescope-Featuring-Picatinny/dp/B004P81FMU.  Note that they make them for 1”, 30mm, and 34mm scopes, so be sure to order one that fits your scope.
2. Flashlight, either for nighttime hog or predator hunting or for home defense (as it’s very hard to hold and shoot a rifle with one hand and hold a flashlight in your other hand – attaching your flashlight to your rifle solves that problem; you also don’t have to spend time looking for your flashlight when seconds count).  If you can’t see the hogs or predators you won’t be able to shoot them.  Note that you can’t hunt deer at night, so if you’re only going to hunt deer and hunt hogs during the day a hunting flashlight isn’t a necessity.  For nighttime hunting I like the Odepro KL52Plus Zoomable Hunting Flashlight for $113 (comes with a red light (for predators), a green light (for hogs), infrared light (for blood tracking), and white light, which can be used as a tactical light).  It includes an on/off pressure switch.  They are weather, water and shock resistant; they cover free repair for any purchases within 24 months if problems develop with normal use.  It does not include a Picatinny rail mount – you’ll need to buy a Magpul M-LOK Cantilever Rail/Light Mount for $33, see #3 below).  The Elusive Wildlife Technologies Kill Light XLR 250), which as the name implies will shine out to 250 yards, costs $7 more.  It includes a low profile Picatinny rail mount, ready to be installed on Magpul 7 slot rail section – see #5 below; available in three color options: green (for hogs – 260 lumens), red (for predators – 270 lumens) or white (for tactical – 360 lumens), but it only comes with one of the three; withstands the abuses almost any hunting environment can throw at it, but does not indicate whether it is water-resistant; has a money back 45 day guarantee on the entire package including shipping and a lifetime warranty on the light body and LED).  I bought a Kill Light with a green lens several years ago, before Odepro came on the market.  If I were buying today to mount on an AR, I’d buy the Odepro and the Magpul M-LOK Cantilever Rail/Light Mount and save $7, compared to the price for the Kill light, and get a more versatile and powerful light that includes an on/off pressure switch.  For home defense – an Ozark Armament 600 Lumen Light for $50 at https://www.amazon.com/Ozark-Armament-Remote-Pressure-Switch/dp/B06XH9JX3N/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1529773216&sr=1-2&keywords=ozark+600&linkCode=sl1&tag=pewpewtac-20&linkId=22f1c282f3dc179e3bcc0ccea237d094 (the bundle includes a Picatinny single rail mount, ready to be installed on Magpul 7 slot rail section – see #5 below; water resistant; lifetime warranty against any and all defects).  It comes with an on/off pressure switch.
3. Magpul M-LOK Cantilever Rail/Light Mount, Aluminum.  $33 at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MRB09NI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.  It will mount directly to your M-LOK rail, either one of the sides or the bottom, as far forward as possible.  This is not needed if you buy the Orion H40-W LED Tactical Flashlight, Ozark Armament 600 Lumen Light, or current Exclusive Wildlife Kill Light 250 XLR Flashlights (see #2 above).  They are only needed for the Odepro KL52Plus Zoomable Hunting Flashlight and older Exclusive Wildlife Kill Light 250 XLR Flashlights without a low profile Picatinny rail mount.
4. Magpul angled foregrip. $35 at https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/magpul-afg2-angled-foregrip.  If you do a lot of shooting by just gripping your M-LOK rail you had better wear some thick gloves.  This foregrip also gives you better control of your rifle.  It should be mounted to your M-LOK bottom rail on a Magpul 7 slot rail section – see #5 below.
5. Magpul 7 slot rail section for the foregrip (see #4 above).  You won’t be able to mount the foregrip on a M-LOK rail without a rail section.  You can get one at https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-M-LOK-Polymer-Rail-Slots/dp/B00PDKO7LU/ref=pd_bxgy_1/135-1955353-2153913?pd_rd_w=MwdyG&pf_rd_p=c64372fa-c41c-422e-990d-9e034f73989b&pf_rd_r=NRY3WTJWPSMBXHSDYTVG&pd_rd_r=20f1222b-d540-4dfe-b90d-db4cb8a6d99f&pd_rd_wg=559Nc&pd_rd_i=B00NTZ5738&th=1 for $13.
6. EZshoot 2 Point Sling and Quick Release Sling Mount. $12 at https://www.ebay.com/itm/255104091413?hash=item3b65638515:g:lVQAAOSw2ftgutUb.  Slings make it easy to carry your rifle from your vehicle to your stand while you’re also carrying other stuff.  Also, if you’re just going to be stalking through the woods, a sling will put your rifle’s weight on your shoulders instead of your arms.
7. Magpul ASAP – Ambidextrous Sling Attachment Point.  $27 at https://www.opticsplanet.com/magpul-asap-sling-plate.html.  This may not be needed if you have studs on your forearm and stock to attach a sling.
8. Back Up Iron Sights (BUIS).  They’re mainly for home defense where a scope may make hitting a moving intruder difficult.  I got an open box one here for $26 – https://daggerdefense.com/products/open-box-dagger-defense-tactical-flip-buis-picatinny-rail-mounted-backup-iron-sights.  There wasn’t a scratch of ding on them.  However, if your scope isn’t mounted high you might have to use an angled BUIS like these (also $26) – https://daggerdefense.com/products/open-box-dagger-defense-flip-buis-45-degree-picatinny-rail-mounted-backup-iron-sights.  They mount directly to your Picatinny top rail – no Magpul rail section is needed.

What is the best AR in your opinion?

Daniel Defense and Bushmaster have great reputations.  It all depends on how much you want to spend.  Does a hunter in Texas need a match-grade barrel?

I didn’t receive my duck stamp in the mail.  What should I do?

Contact Amplex at duckstamp@amplex.com or 800/852-4897.  Do not contact the Federal Duck Stamp Office.